Vacation days in GreeceRichardson, Rufus B. (Rufus Byam)
History
Vacation days in Greece
Richardson, Rufus B. (Rufus Byam)
Greece -- Description and travel
The yield of statues from the excavations has, it is true, been smaller
than many expected it to be. But it would be most absurd to say that
the work has been disappointing. The bronze charioteer alone, probably
a subsidiary figure in the group dedicated by a member of the Syracusan
family, Gelon, Hieron, Polyzalos, would have set the stamp of success
upon the enterprise. And, apart from this, there is a whole museum
full of statuary of the utmost importance in the history of sculpture.
Tombs of the Mycenæan period with rich contents have also added to
the interest of the excavations, more important in some aspects than
those of Olympia. It will be years before the enormous quantity of
inscriptions can be published.
The French excavators are to be congratulated upon the ease with which
they got rid of their earth. Their dumping-cars were easily brought
to the edge of the gorge of the Pleistos, and the contents shot down
thousands of feet, never to trouble them more. How I have envied them
when working at Corinth, where one of the chief difficulties has been
to find a proper dumping-place for the enormous deposit of from twenty
to thirty feet of earth. At Olympia, also, the brook Kladeos was very
serviceable in carrying off the dump. It is a pity that one cannot
always find an excavation site close by a serviceable river.
DODONA
My friend, Mr. Arthur Hill, the British Vice Consul at Piræus, being
about to make a business trip through Epiros in the spring of 1891,
invited me to join him. Without this invitation I should have travelled
Greece very unsymmetrically, leaving out all the country west of
the great Pindos range. It is fair to call this Greece, although,
in defiance of the arrangements of the treaty of Berlin, most of it
remains politically Turkish.
At Patras we took a little Greek coasting steamer late at night, and,
with only one incident worth mentioning, arrived a little after noon
the next day at Prevesa on Turkish territory. The one incident was a
stop of an hour in the wonderfully retired harbor on the east coast of
Ithaca. If Homer had this in mind in describing the harbor of Phorkys
he might well say that the ships needed no cable there. Even half an
hour on shore for a short Homeric reverie was something to be thankful
for. On our boat was a man who looked for all the world like the
weather-beaten Ulysses returning from his twenty-years' absence. To my
disgust he did not get off at Ithaca to hunt up Penelope, but went on
to Leukas.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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