Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
I am afraid, to judge by my own café, it is quite impossible to give
anything like a true idea of Constantinople to those who have never been
there; at any rate it would require a volume and not two columns to do
it, but I can’t help trying to impart some of my own impressions to your
readers. Miles away in the Sea of Marmora you first catch sight of
the domes and minarets (like huge wax candles with graceful black
extinguishers on them) of the capital of the East. As you near the mouth
of the Bosphorus, on the European side lies the Seraglio Point with its
palaces, Sublime Porte, and public offices and gardens full of noble
cypresses. On the Asiatic side lies Scutari, the great hospital, with
the English cemetery and Marochetti’s monument in front of it, occupying
the highest and most conspicuous point. Midway between the two shores
is a rock called Leander’s rock, on which is a picturesque little
lighthouse. Passing this you turn short to the left round Seraglio
Point, and open at once the view of the whole city. The Golden Horn runs
right away in front of you, and on the promontory between it and the Sea
of Marmora lies the old town of Stamboul, crowned with the mosques of
St. Sophia and Sultan Achmet. A curious old wooden bridge, some five
hundred yards in length, crosses the Golden Horn and connects it with
Galata, a mass of custom-houses, barracks and offices, broken by a
handsome open square, at one end of which is the Sultan’s mosque. Behind
these the houses are piled up the steep hill side, and at the top stands
the striking old tower of Galata, from which you get the finest view of
Constantinople. Beyond comes Pera, the European quarter, where are the
Embassies and Missouri’s Hotel. Of course a vast city lining such
a harbour and strait as the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus must be
beautiful, but there is something very peculiar in the beauty of
Constantinople, which the splendid site alone will not account for. I
tried hard to satisfy myself what it was, and believe that it lies in
the wonderful colouring of the place. The mosques are splendid, but
not so fine as many Gothic churches, and the houses in general are far
inferior to those of most other capitals; and yet, seen in the mass,
they are strikingly beautiful, for those which are not of wood are
almost all covered with boarding, which is stained or painted in many
different colours. Many of them are a deep russet brown, others slate
gray, or blue, or deep yellow, some pale green with the windows picked
out in red. The colours are not fresh, but toned down. Then very many
of the houses have court-yards, or small gardens, and you get the fresh
foliage of orange-trees, and figs, and cypresses, as a further contrast,
and for flooring and ceiling the blue of the Bosphorus water and of the
cloudless Eastern sky. The moment you get into the wretched, narrow,
unpaved streets, the charm goes; but while you keep to the great high
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account