It was during the World’s Fair that I arrived in London. My whole life
there might be written down under the general title of “The Adventures
of a Straw Hat,” for the one which I wore was the signal for all the
sharpers of that great city to practise their arts upon me. They took me
for some country youth come up to see the Exhibition, and the number of
skittle-alleys and thief dens into which they enticed me was, to say the
least, remarkable.
Through the friendly advice of a police detective, I was finally
prevailed upon to purchase a new English hat, and with this, as a sort
of ægis, I passed out of the British dominions, without being
robbed,--and, indeed, without much of which to be robbed.
At Paris I witnessed the magnificent _fêtes_ of the Emperor, and took
the third-class cars for Strasbourg and Heidelberg. At this latter city,
with a sum equal to nearly eighty dollars in gold, I proposed for an
indefinite series of years, to become a student of the far-famed
Karl-Rupert University.
I was not happy in Heidelberg, therefore, till I had experienced the
mystery of academic matriculation. All I can recall of that long
ceremony now is, that I had the honor of shaking hands--_sancte dataque
dextra pollicitus est_ is the language in which my diploma speaks of me,
commemorating, I believe, that impressive moment--over my passport with
a large-moustached German official; and that I furthermore had the
privilege of paying a fee of eleven guldens and twenty-six kreutzers,--a
little over four and a half dollars.
After much search and many unintelligible appeals in bad German, through
wellnigh every dingy street of Heidelberg, I finally secured a room for
two guldens--eighty cents--a month: and such a room! It was on the story
next to the clouds. It seemed to be cut into the high gable of the gray
old German house by some freak or afterthought of the architect. It was
reached by interminable staircases and through a long hall, or
passage-way, whose unplastered walls were hung with the rubbish of many
generations. It was just large enough to permit of my turning round,
after furnishing nooks and corners for a bed, bookcase, wash-stand, and
small, semicircular table; but all was neat and clean, for my room was
subject, like the rest of the German world, to the regular Saturday’s
inundation of soap and water.
Directly opposite, on the other side of the narrow street, but far, far
below, was the shop of a sausage-maker. If I had been an enthusiast in
mechanics, I should have found much consolation in this fact, as well as
a great deal “to lead hope on”; because a sausage-maker’s apprentice is
really, if not perpetual motion itself, a strong inductive argument in
favor of its future discovery. The one to whom I have alluded kept up a
continual hacking, day and night, week-day and Sunday. The sound of his
meat-axe met my ears the first thing in the morning and the last thing
at night; it was, in fact, my matin and my angelus bell.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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