Valencia and Murcia, a glance at African SpainCalvert, Albert Frederick
History
Valencia and Murcia, a glance at African Spain
Calvert, Albert Frederick
Murcia (Spain) -- Description and travel; Valencia (Spain) -- Description and travel
A new capital, Murcia, was founded, that soon rivalled Toledo and
Cordoba as a manufactory of arms. After undergoing the usual
vicissitudes of Moorish States, it was taken in 1266 by Jaime el
Conqueridor, and handed over to his son-in-law, the King of Castile. For
two hundred years it endured the attacks of the Moors of Granada, acting
meanwhile as a buffer to the Christian kingdom.
Murcia to-day seems a survival of the Middle Ages. The legend goes that
Adam returning to earth recognised the province as the only relic of the
world he left. The Murcians are a conservative people, clinging to the
beliefs and ideas of their forefathers, untouched by the march of
thought. Religion is the changeless background of their lives, and often
its picturesque ceremonies completely hold the stage. One of the most
interesting of their religious festivals is the Passion Procession held
on Good Friday. According to tradition this has continued without
interruption since 1603, except in the year 1809 only, when it was
forbidden by the Government.
Organised by the Confraternity of Jesus, the great feature of the
procession is the magnificent series of carved groups (known as _pasos_)
representing scenes from the Biblical narrative. These are the work of
the great master Salzillo, who is said to have carved no fewer than 1792
wooden figures in his long life of seventy-six years. During the
eighteenth century the Trades Guilds of Murcia gave special support to
the Confraternity. They are accordingly granted the privilege of
carrying the different _pasos_ in the procession. Thus the “Kiss of
Judas” is borne by the bakers; Santa Veronica by the weavers; while the
tailors carry the gigantic group of the Last Supper. The bearers, all
alike clad in purple, carry lighted candles and musical instruments.
Their hoods shroud their heads, the eyes alone being visible through
slits; a knotted rope girdles the waist, and stockings of coarse white
wool, instead of the bare feet demanded by the original statute,
acknowledge the claims of the twentieth century.
It is six o’clock on Good Friday morning. The streets are thronged with
eager sightseers; heads are devoutly bared and many a plain wooden
cross is displayed to mark the sympathy of the crowd. A band of mounted
gendarmes clears the way. The standard-bearer chants to the populace
that “This is done in remembrance of the Passion of Our Lord Jesus
Christ.” Smothered in flowers the first five _pasos_ are borne along.
Then to the sound of drum and trumpet, with the ringing of bells and the
blare of bugles, Our Father Jesus passes, enveloped in a cloud of
flaming candles, accompanied by the Holy Brotherhood. The remaining
_pasos_ follow close, the clergy and the representatives of King and
Bishop bringing up the rear.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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