Valencia and Murcia, a glance at African Spain — John Shaqi
Valencia and Murcia, a glance at African SpainCalvert, Albert Frederick
History
Valencia and Murcia, a glance at African Spain
Calvert, Albert Frederick
Murcia (Spain) -- Description and travel; Valencia (Spain) -- Description and travel
The _pasos_ themselves will repay inspection. Though abounding in
ludicrous anachronisms, often in flabby sentiment, they are beautifully
carved and superbly mounted. It is said that £1000 was offered by an
enthusiastic German for the uplifted arm of St. Peter in the “Kiss of
Judas.”
The first group of the Last Supper is of enormous size, requiring no
fewer than twenty-four bearers during the procession. Among the tailors
of the city there is keen competition for this honour, for the splendid
collation that is offered by the pious to the lifeless feasters is later
sold by auction for the benefit of the bearers. The price it fetches is
no small one, for it is regarded as true _pain béni_, bringing
happiness to those who eat. The Agony in the Garden is reputed of
supernatural design and is known as “The Pearl of Salzillo.” The Angel
Gabriel is considered unrivalled, and the legend goes that the Duke of
Wellington bid £80,000 for this one figure. The figures are
magnificently clothed, the sword and crown of Jesus being set down in
the accounts of the brotherhood at £200 and £120 respectively. Perhaps
the finest of the groups is that which comes last--our Lady of Dolours,
whose expression of supreme sorrow has rarely been equalled whether by
chisel or brush. It is said that the sculptor copied it from the
countenance of his own daughter, to whom, with this end in view, he had
deliberately presented a forged letter announcing the suicide of her
betrothed. The _pasos_ are deposited in the Ermita de Jesus, where they
can be seen by the traveller.
In the town of Murcia itself the influence of the Cross has almost
completely banished the Crescent. Gone is the Alcazar, where the Amirs
mimicked the State of Cordoba and Toledo; gone is the mosque, where
thousands of turbaned heads bowed daily towards Mecca. But in the centre
of the city is one of those squares found in every southern and eastern
city, which in Spain is always named after the Constitution, in Italy
after Victor Emmanuel, and in France after the Republic. To cross it in
the afternoon would mean sudden death, for Murcia is one of the hottest
corners of Europe. But later a gentle breeze springs up and the citizens
troop out to meet with friends upon the Malecon and admire the charming
view of the Segura valley, which, as M. Brunhés has said, is “an
admirable zone of model agricultural establishment.” This fertile huerta
bespeaks industry as great as that of the Swiss or Scottish peasant, for
the worship of sloth with which Mr. O’Shea charges the Murcian people is
groundless and unjust.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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