Vanished Halls and Cathedrals of France — John Shaqi
Vanished Halls and Cathedrals of FranceEdwards, George Wharton
History
Vanished Halls and Cathedrals of France
Edwards, George Wharton
Cathedrals -- France; Cities and towns -- France; France -- Description and travel
Ruskin wrote in his diary under date of May 11th, 1857: "I had a happy
walk here (Amiens) this afternoon, down among the branching currents
of the Somme: it divides into five or six, shallow, green and not
over-wholesome; some quite narrow and foul, running beneath clusters of
fearful houses, reeling masses of rotten timber; and a few mere stumps
of pollard willow sticking out of the banks of soft mud, only retained
in shape of bank by being shored up with timbers; and boats like paper
boats, nearly as thin at least, for costermongers to paddle about
in among the weeds, the water soaking through the lath bottoms, and
floating the dead leaves from the vegetable baskets with which they were
loaded. Miserable little back yards, opening to the water, with steep
stone steps down to it, and little platforms for the ducks; and separate
duck staircases, composed of a sloping board with cross bits of wood
leading to the ducks' doors; and sometimes a flower pot or two on them,
or even a flower--one group of wall flowers and geraniums curiously
vivid, being seen against the darkness of a dyer's backyard, who had
been dyeing black, and all was black in his yard but the flowers, and
they fiery and pure; the water by no means so, but still working its way
steadily over the weeds, until it narrowed into a current strong enough
to turn two or three 'wind mills,' (!) one working against the side
of an old Flamboyant Gothic church, whose richly traceried buttresses
sloped down into the filthy stream; all exquisitely picturesque, and no
less miserable. (! ) We delight in seeing the figures in these boats,
pushing them about the bits of blue water, in Prout's drawings; but as
I looked to-day at the unhealthy face and melancholy mien of the man in
the boat pushing his load of peat along the ditch, and of the people,
men as well as women, who sat spinning gloomily at cottage doors, I
could not help feeling how many persons must pay for my picturesque
subject and happy walk."
The reader will probably exclaim: "Well, if this is Ruskin's idea of a
'happy walk,' what then would be his description of a gloomy one?"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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