Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
There is a corner of Venice little known to the stranger, or even
to Venetians themselves, except as a passage to the cemetery of San
Michele, but not less loved on that account by those who are happy
enough to have their lot cast there. The breezes blow with a freshness
that is rare in the more confined spaces of the city or on the Grand
Canal; the tide sets into the Sacca della Misericordia full and fresh
from the northern lagoon, still beating with the pulse of the open sea.
This favoured, this unique corner of Venice is a large square basin of
water, open on one side to the lagoon. Venice, at one time, could boast
of many such, but one by one they have been filled in with earth, and
in the sixteenth century, when the neighbouring Fondamente Nuove were
built, the Sacca della Misericordia itself narrowly escaped inclusion
in the paved parade that was to unite the whole of North Venice from
Santa Giustina to Sant’ Alvise. The fiat had gone forth, but happily it
remains as yet unfulfilled, and the Sacca is still a harbour for the
_zattere_, the timber rafts that are brought down from the mountains,
and set here to season awhile, in sight of their old home, till at
last they are borne away to do service in the works of man. A tiny hut
of planks without a door is set up here and there upon the rafts, and
a couple of dogs are continually upon the prowl. Something in this
woodyard, the building of the rafts, the lapping of the inflowing
tide against them, its waves twisted in some angle into a petulant
restlessness, seems to carry us back to the primeval days before the
historic settlement of the fugitives from the great mainland cities,
back to the manners of the humble fishermen who lived a hard and frugal
life among the low islands of the Adriatic, in constant commerce with
their patron the sea, in constant vigilance against his aggression.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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