Walks in RomeHare, Augustus J. C. (Augustus John Cuthbert)
History
Walks in Rome
Hare, Augustus J. C. (Augustus John Cuthbert)
Rome (Italy) -- Description and travel
No one should omit seeing the grand picture of _Guido Reni_, over the
high altar of this church,--the Crucifixion, seen against a wild, stormy
sky. Niccolas Poussin, ob. 1660, is buried here, and one of his best
known Arcadian landscapes is reproduced in a bas-relief upon his tomb,
which was erected by Chateaubriand, with the epitaph,--
"Parce piis lacrymis, vivit Pussinus in urnâ,
Vivus qui dederat, nescius ipse mori.
Hîc tamen ipse silet; si vis audire loquentem,
Mirum est, in tabulis vivit, et eloquitur."
In "The Ring and the Book" of Browning, this church is the scene of
Pompilia's baptism and marriage. She is made to say:--
--"This St. Lorenzo seems
My own particular place, I always say.
I used to wonder, when I stood scarce high
As the bed here, what the marble lion meant,
Eating the figure of a prostrate man."
Here the bodies of her parents are represented as being exposed after
the murder:
--"beneath the piece
Of Master Guido Reni, Christ on Cross,
Second to nought observable in Rome."
On the left, where the Via della Vite turns out of the Corso, an
inscription in the wall records the destruction, in 1665, of the
triumphal arch of Marcus Aurelius, which existed here till that time.
The magnificence of this arch is attested by the bas-reliefs
representing the history of the emperor, which were removed from it, and
are preserved on the staircase of the palace of the Conservators.
"Les Barbares n'en savaient pas assez et n'avaient pas assez de
patience pour démolir les monuments romains; mais, avec les
ressources de la science moderne et à la suite d'une administration
régulière, on est venu à bout de presque tout ce que le temps avait
épargné. Il y'avait, par exemple, au commencement du XVIe.
siècle, quatre arcs de triomphe qui n'existent plus; le dernier,
celui de Marc Aurele, a été enlevé par le pape Alexandre VII. On
lit encore dans le Corso l'inconcevable inscription dans laquelle
le pape se vante d'avoir debarrassé la promenade publique de ce
monument, qui, vu sa date, devait être d'un beau style."--_Ampère,
Voyage Dantesque._
A little further down the Corso, on the left, the Via delle Convertite
leads to _S. Sylvestro in Capite_, one of three churches in Rome
dedicated to the sainted pope of the time of Constantine. This, like S.
Lorenzo, has a fine mediæval campanile. The day of St. Sylvester's
death, December 31 (A.D. 335), is kept here with great solemnity, and is
celebrated by magnificent musical services. This pope was buried in the
cemetery of Priscilla, whence his remains were removed to S. Martino al
Monte. The title "In Capite" is given to this church on account of the
head of St John Baptist, which it professes to possess, as is narrated
by an inscription engrafted into its walls.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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