Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
On this part of the coast stands, close to the sea, the small
Greek chapel. I have not been able to discover why it bears this
name—dedicated as it is to the Madonna del Carmine, and bearing
a tablet with the name of the family of Pozzo di Borgo—_Puteo
Borgensis_—inscribed upon it. It was probably ceded to the Greeks on
their arrival at Ajaccio. The Genoese had settled the colony of Mainotes
at Paomia, which lies a considerable distance above Ajaccio. These
industrious colonists were continually threatened by the Corsicans.
Hating and despising the intruders—whose settlement had flourished in a
remarkable degree—they stabbed the husbandman at the plough, shot the
vine-dresser in his vineyard, and laid waste the fields and gardens.
In the year 1731, the poor Greeks were expelled from their settlement;
they fled to Ajaccio, where they were quartered by the Genoese, to
whom they had always remained faithful, in three separate divisions of
the town. When the island fell into the hands of the French, they were
allowed to settle in Cargese. They brought this part of the country into
a high state of cultivation, but had hardly time to become properly
domesticated before the Corsicans again fell upon them, in the year
1793, set fire to their houses, slaughtered their cattle, destroyed
their vineyards, and forced them to flee once more to Ajaccio. In 1797,
General Casabianca led the poor wanderers back to Cargese, where they
now live in peace and safety. All peculiarities in their manners and
customs have disappeared; they speak Corsican, like their troublesome
neighbours, and among themselves a corrupt kind of Greek. Cargese lies
on the sea, north from Ajaccio, and not far from the baths of Vico and
Guagno.
On the same part of the coast are scattered many small chapels, in
various forms—round, polygonal, with and without cupolas, and some
in the shape of sarcophagi and temples, surrounded by white walls,
and overhung with cypresses and weeping willows. These are the
country-houses of the dead—family burying-places. Their situation on
the sea-shore, in sight of the beautiful gulf, standing, too, among
green trees and shrubs, and the elegant Moorish style in which they are
built, give a very pleasant and romantic appearance to the country. The
Corsican has strong antipathies to being buried in a public churchyard;
he follows the ancient custom of the patriarchs, and prefers to rest
with his fathers on his own possessions. Thus the whole island is
covered with small tombs, often in the most beautiful situations, and
heightening greatly the picturesque appearance of the landscape.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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