Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
We reached the little town, which consists of but few houses, and
has only five hundred and eighty inhabitants, at mid-day. It has a
magnificent situation on one of the finest gulfs of Corsica. The only
large valley of Nebbio—the valley of Aliso—traversed by a stream of
the same name, lies before the town. The Aliso flows lazily through a
marsh that poisons the whole region with malaria. On its margin stood
a solitary fan-palm, giving, in the sultry glare of noon, a tropical
character to the whole landscape. Some women and children lay idling
round a cistern, their metal water-pitchers beside them—a group that
harmonized admirably with the palm. The Corsican strand on the gulfs
is, throughout, idyllic; its pictures have a half Homeric, half Old
Testament character.
In a quarter of an hour I had walked over the town. A little fort,
which, with its cupola-crowned tower, looks more like a Turkish mosque
than a castle, protects the harbour, in which a few fishing-boats lay at
anchor. The situation of San Fiorenzo is so singularly advantageous—the
gulf, one of the finest in the Mediterranean, holds out such tempting
commercial facilities, that one cannot but be astonished at the
prevailing desolation. Napoleon, in Antommarchi's memoirs, mentions the
place in these terms: "San Fiorenzo has one of the finest situations I
have ever seen. It lies most favourably for commerce; it touches France,
borders on Italy; its landing-places are safe and convenient; its roads
can accommodate large fleets. I should have built there a large and
beautiful city, which would have become a metropolis."
According to Ptolemy, the old city of Cersunum must have stood in the
neighbourhood of the gulf. The considerable town of Nebbio lay here in
the Middle Ages, and its ruins are still visible half a mile from the
present San Fiorenzo. On an eminence rises still the old Cathedral of
the Bishops of Nebbio, very much dilapidated, but still imposing. It
exhibits the style of the Pisan Basilica, and was probably built in the
eleventh or twelfth century. The church was dedicated to Santa Maria
dell' Assunta. Beside it stand the ruins of the bishop's residence. The
bishops who lived here were no less warlike than the most turbulent of
the Corsican seigniors. They gave themselves the title of Counts of
Nebbio, and it is related that they appeared in the popular assembly
of the Terra del Commune with their swords by their side; and that
when they read mass, they had always a pair of loaded pistols lying on
the altar. The city fell into decay like Accia and Sagone, two other
considerable cities and bishoprics of Corsica. At the present day many
Roman coins are found in that quarter, and many urns have been dug out
of Roman tombs there.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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