Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
The more modern town of San Fiorenzo was one of the first places which
gave its adherence to the Bank of Genoa, in consequence of which the
city enjoyed many rights and privileges. The Bank sent over a Castellano
and a Podestà yearly, who conducted affairs along with four consuls. In
later wars, the Castle of San Fiorenzo was frequently of importance.
The fresh-caught fish with which our table was here supplied, were
excellent. Scarcely had we despatched them when we resumed our journey.
The road now for some distance leaves the shore, and ascends a range of
hills which sometimes shut out the view of the sea. This coast country
continues mountainous and barren into the province of Balagna, and as
far as Isola Rossa. The Plutonic forces have scattered large fragments
of rock on every side. They cover the declivities in gigantic blocks
or shattered into debris; slate, limestone, granite, are everywhere
visible.
The olive and the chestnut are no longer so abundant; but the wild
olive-shrub (oleastro) covers the hills, with the arbutus, rosemary,
myrtle, and erica. All this shrubbery had suffered from the sun; the
reddish brown tinge of the twigs, the gray of the olive-bushes, and
the weather-worn stones, gave the region, as far as the eye reached, a
melancholy tone. The glimmering of the heated air is the only motion in
this desert stillness; not a bird sings, only the grasshopper chirps.
Sometimes you see a flock of black goats lying under an olive-tree, or
scouring over the rocks, seized with the panic-terror.
From time to time we passed little lonely wayside taverns, where the
mules of the _diligenza_ were changed, or we stopped where a spring
filled a stone trough, at which man and beast were equally glad to slake
their thirst.
I saw in some places little fields of grain—barley and rye. The grain
had been already cut down, and was being threshed upon the field. The
arrangement for this is very simple. In the middle of the field is a
little round threshing-floor, built of stone, and upon this the Corsican
throws down his sheaves, and has them trodden out by oxen, which drag
a heavy stone behind them. I observed that, contrary to the scriptural
injunction, the ox was always muzzled. Innumerable threshing-floors of
this description were scattered over the fields, yet no village was
in sight. Near the threshing-floors stood little barns, four square
erections of stone, with flat roofs. The circular threshing-floors, and
these little gray houses, dotting the fields far and wide, had a most
singular appearance; they seemed the dwellings of gnomes. The Corsican
laughs when you tell him how the husbandman of the north swings the
flail with his own arms; such galley-slave toil he would submit to at
no price.
During the whole journey I saw no wheeled vehicle but our own. Now and
again a Corsican met us on horseback; his double-barrel slung behind
him, and his parasol over his head.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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