Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
At length, after crossing the little river Ostriconi, we again
approached the shore. The coast has frequently only an elevation of a
hundred feet; then it again shoots upwards in the steepest and rudest
forms. The mountains grow more and more imposing as you approach Isola
Rossa. They are the romantic summits of Balagna—the Promised Land of
the Corsicans, for it literally flows with honey and oil. Some of the
mountains wore snow-caps, and glittered with crystalline splendour.
Yonder lies Isola Rossa before us on the strand! yonder the two gray
towers of the Pisans! yonder the blood-red islet-cliffs that give the
town its name! What an exquisite little idyl of the sea-shore and the
sunset! Silent mountains bending over a silent sea, gray olives holding
out to the pilgrim their branches of peace, a hospitable smoke ascending
from the hearths—verily, I swear that I am come to the enchanted shore
of the Lotus-eaters.
CHAPTER II.
STRAND-IDYL OF ISOLA ROSSA.
——"Of which fruit what man soe'er
Once tasted, no desire felt he to come
With tidings back, or seek his country more.
But rather wish'd to feed on lotus still
With the Lotophagi, and to renounce
All thoughts of home."—_Odyssey._
A large rural esplanade lies at the entrance of the little town,
enclosed however within its walls, which look like the walls of gardens.
In the centre of the esplanade rises a square fountain of granite,
surmounted by a marble bust of Paoli. It had been placed there two
months previously. Paoli is the founder of Isola Rossa. He founded it
in the year 1758, when the war with the Genoese was at its hottest, and
the Republic was in possession of the neighbouring fortified town of
Algajola. He said at the time: "I have erected the gallows on which I
shall hang Algajola." The Genoese came with their gun-boats to hinder
the operations, but the new town rose under their hail of balls; and
Isola Rossa has now 1860 inhabitants, and is important as the emporium
and principal seaport of the oil-abounding Balagna.
I found some children playing round the fountain; among them, a
beautiful boy of six, with the darkest curling hair, and large, dark,
impressive eyes. The child was lovely as an angel. "Do you know,
children," I asked, "who that man is there on the fountain?" "Yes, we
know," said they, "it is Pasquale Paoli." The children asked me what
country I came from; and when I told them to guess, they guessed all the
countries, and at last Egypt, but they knew nothing of Germany. Since
then, they follow me wherever I go; I cannot get rid of them. They sing
me songs, and bring me coral-dust, and painted shells from the shore.
I find them everywhere; and they bring their companions to see me,
so that, like the Piper of Hameln,[A] I draw crowds of children after
me, and they accompany me even into the sea. Earth-shaking Neptune is
friendly, and the blue-footed Nereids approve, and the dolphins play
close by, among the crystal waves.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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