Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
As I leant over one of the embrasures, taking a bird's-eye view of
this town where I knew no one and where my own name was completely
unknown, I had fallen into a deep train of thought. In the presence
of all these forms and all these objects that I beheld at that
moment, and which, in all probability, I was destined never to
behold again, I began to entertain doubts of my own identity; I
felt so absent, as it were, from myself, transported so far from my
own sphere, that everything appeared an hallucination of my mind,
a strange dream, from which I should be suddenly awakened by the
sharp squeaking music of some vaudeville, as I was looking out of
a box at the theatre. By one of those leaps which our imagination
often takes when we are buried in reverie, I tried to picture to
myself what my friends might be doing at that moment; I asked
myself whether they noticed my absence, and whether at the time I
was leaning over the battlements of the Alcazar of Toledo, my name
was hovering on the lips of some well-loved and faithful friend at
Paris. Apparently the answer that my thoughts gave me was not an
affirmative one, for in spite of the scene I felt an indescribable
feeling of sadness come over me, though the dream of my whole life
was being accomplished; I knew that one of my fondest ideas was
being fulfilled; in my youthful, happy years of romanticism, I had
spoken enough of my good Toledo blade to feel some curiosity to see
the place where these same blades were manufactured.
Nothing, however, could rouse me from my philosophical meditations,
until my companion came and proposed that we should bathe in the
Tagus. Bathing is rather a rare peculiarity in a country where,
during the summer, the natives water the beds of the rivers with
water from the wells. Trusting to the assurances of the guide
that the Tagus was a real river, possessing a sufficient amount
of humidity to answer our purpose, we descended as quickly as we
could from the Alcazar, in order to profit by what little daylight
still remained, and directed our steps towards the stream. After
crossing the _Plaza de la Constitucion_, which is surrounded by
houses whose windows, furnished with large spartum blinds rolled
up, or half raised by the projecting balconies, have a sort of
Venetian mediæval look that is highly picturesque, we passed under
a handsome Arabic gateway with its semicircular brick arch, and
following a very steep and abrupt zigzag path, winding along the
rocks and walls which serve Toledo as a girdle, we reached the
bridge of Alcantara, near which we found a place suited for bathing.
During our walk, night, which succeeds the day so rapidly in
southern climates, had set in completely; but this did not hinder
us from wading blindfold into this estimable stream, rendered
famous by the languishing ballad of Queen Hortense, and by the
golden sands which are contained in its crystal waves, according to
the poets, the guides, and the travellers' handbooks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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