Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
Everything was executed with the greatest exactitude. A pile of
very dry flaming wood was heaped up on the _Plaza Zocodover_,
which, as long as it has been a _plaza_, never beheld such a
concourse of spectators; the two liturgies were cast into the fire,
each party looking up to Heaven with arms uplifted in prayer. The
Romish ritual was rejected, and its leaves all scattered about
by the violence of the flames, but it came out intact, although
somewhat scorched. The Toledan ritual, on the other hand, remained
majestically in the midst of the flames, on the very spot on which
it had been thrown, without moving, or receiving the least injury.
Some few enthusiastic Mozarabians went so far as to assert that
the Romish ritual was entirely consumed. The king, the queen; the
legate Richard, were but slightly gratified, but they had gone
too far to retract. The Mozarabic ritual was therefore preserved
and followed with ardour, for a long period, by the Mozarabians,
their sons, and grandsons; but at last, the meaning of the ritual
was lost, and there was no one left capable of performing or
understanding the service which had occasioned so much contention.
Don Francisco Ximenes, archbishop of Toledo, being desirous that so
memorable a custom should not be discontinued, founded a Mozarabic
chapel in the cathedral, caused the ritual, which was in Gothic
characters, to be printed in ordinary letters, and ordained priests
whose special duty it was to celebrate the Mozarabic service.
The Mozarabic Chapel, which still exists at the present day, is
ornamented with the most interesting Gothic frescoes, representing
various combats between the Toledans and the Moors. They are in a
perfect state of preservation, the colours being as vivid as if
they had only been applied yesterday. An archæologist could not
fail to gather from them a vast quantity of curious information
concerning the arms, costumes, weapons, and architecture of the
period; for the principal fresco represents a view of Old Toledo,
and was, no doubt, very exact. In the lateral frescoes are painted,
with great attention to all the details, the vessels which brought
the Arabs to Spain; a seaman might glean some very useful hints
from them concerning the history of mediæval naval matters, at
present so obscure. The arms of Toledo--five stars sable on a
field, silver--are repeated in several parts of this low-arched
chapel, which is enclosed, according to the Spanish fashion, by a
gate of magnificent workmanship.
The chapel of the Virgin, which is entirely covered with porphyry,
jasper, and yellow breccia, most admirably polished, surpasses in
richness all the splendour of the "Thousand and One Nights." There
are a great many relics here; among others, a reliquary, presented
by Saint Louis, and containing a piece of the true cross.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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