Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
We will now wait a little to recover our breath; meanwhile, we
will, if you please, take a turn in the cloisters. They surround
a number of elegant and severe arcades of beautiful masses
of verdure, which, thanks to the shade thrown on them by the
cathedral, remain green in spite of the intense heat at this time
of the year. All the cloister walls are covered with immense
frescoes, in the style of Vanloo, painted by an artist named Bayeu.
The composition of these paintings is easy and their colouring
pleasing, but they do not agree with the style of the building, and
no doubt replace older works that had suffered from the effects
of age, or been considered perhaps too Gothic by the persons "of
taste" at that period. Cloisters are very appropriately situated
near a church; they form a happy transition from the tranquillity
of the sanctuary to the turmoil of the city. You can walk about,
dream and meditate, in them, without being under the necessity of
joining in the prayers and ceremonies of the service: catholics
enter the temple; Christians remain more frequently in the
cloisters. This peculiar state of mind has been well understood
by the catholic church, who is so skilful a psychologist. In
religious countries, the cathedral is always the most ornamented,
richest, most florid, and most profusely gilt, of all the buildings
in a town. In a cathedral, the shade is coolest and the silence
most profound; the music is better than it is in the theatre, and
nothing can be compared to the splendour of the pageants. It is the
central point, the most attractive spot, like the Opera-house in
Paris. We northern catholics, with our Voltairean temples, have no
idea of the luxury, elegance, and comfort of Spanish churches: they
are furnished, they are animated, and have not that icy, deserted
look which ours have: the faithful can live in them in sweet
familiarity with Heaven.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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