Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
Overhead, on each side of a long corridor, are ranged, like the
cells in a beehive, the deserted cells of the monks, who have long
since disappeared: they are all exactly similar to one another,
and all covered with white stucco. This whiteness diminishes the
poetical effect a great deal, by preventing monsters and other
bugbears of the imagination from hiding themselves in the dark
holes and corners. The interior of the church and cloisters is also
whitewashed; this gives them a sort of new and recent appearance,
which forms a strong contrast with the style of the architecture
and the state of the edifice. The absence of humidity and the great
heat have not allowed any plants or weeds to spring up between the
interstices of the stones or of the rubbish; and these remains are
not enveloped in the green ivy mantle which Time throws over our
northern ruins. We wandered about the abandoned edifice for a long
time, going up and down a succession of break-neck staircases,
exactly like Anne Radcliffe's heroes, except that we saw nothing in
the way of phantoms save two poor lizards, that made their escape
as quickly as they possibly could, being, doubtless, ignorant, in
their character of Spaniards, of the French proverb, "The lizard
is the friend of man." A stroll of this kind through the veins and
limbs of a large building, from which all life has fled, is one of
the most vivid pleasures that can be conceived; you expect, every
moment, to meet at the turn of some gallery or other one of the old
monks, with his glossy forehead and his eyes sunk in shade, walking
gravely along with his arms folded on his breast, as he proceeds to
take part in some mysterious service in the desecrated and deserted
church.
We now left, for we had seen everything that was worth seeing,
even the kitchens, down to which our guide conducted us with
a Voltairean smile that a subscriber to the _Constitutionnel_
would not have disowned. The church and cloisters are uncommonly
magnificent; the rest of the place displays the strictest
simplicity; everything was for the soul, nothing for the body.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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