Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
Before proceeding further, we ought to warn our readers, who may
perhaps think our descriptions, though scrupulously exact, beneath
the idea they have formed of the Alhambra, that this palace and
fortress of the ancient Moorish kings is very far from presenting
the appearance lent to it by the imagination. We expected to see
terrace superposed on terrace, open-worked minarets, and rows
of boundless colonnades. But nothing of all this really exists:
outside, there are only to be seen large massive towers of the
colour of bricks or toasted bread, built at different epochs by
Arabian princes; and within, all you see is a suite of chambers and
galleries, decorated with extreme delicacy, but with nothing grand
about them. Having made these remarks, we will continue our route.
After having passed the Puerta de Granada, you find yourself
within the bounds of the fortress and under the jurisdiction of a
special governor. There are two routes marked out in a wood of
lofty trees. Let us take the one to the left, which leads to the
fountain of Charles the Fifth: it is the steeper of the two, but
then it is the shorter and the more picturesque. Water flows along
rapidly in small trenches paved with kelp, and spreads around the
bottom of the trees, which nearly all belong to species peculiar
to the north, and the verdancy of which is of such moisture as to
be truly delicious at so short a distance from Africa. The noise
of the murmuring water joins itself to the hoarse hum of a hundred
thousand grasshoppers or crickets, whose music never ceases, and
which forcibly reminds you, in spite of the coolness of the place,
of southern and torrid climes. Water springs forth everywhere; from
beneath the trunks of the trees and through the cracks in the old
walls. The hotter it is, the more abundant are the springs, for
it is the snow which supplies them. This mixture of water, snow,
and fire, renders the Granadian climate unparalleled throughout
the world, and makes Granada a real terrestrial paradise; without
being Moors, we might well have had applied to us, when we appeared
oppressed by deep melancholy, the Arabian saying--"He is thinking
of Granada."
At the end of the road, which continues to rise, you meet a large
monumental fountain, which serves as a shouldering-piece, raised
to the memory of the emperor Charles the Fifth: it is covered with
numerous devices, coats of arms, names of victories, imperial
eagles, mythological medallions, is of a heavy imposing richness,
and in the Romanic-German style. Two shields, bearing the arms of
the house of Mondejar, announce that Don Luis de Mendoza, marquis
of this title, raised the monument in honour of the red-bearded
Cæsar. This fountain, which is solidly constructed, supports the
ascent which leads to the Gate of Justice, through which you enter
the Alhambra proper.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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