Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
of classic architecture only rendered more slim and tapering,
with that skill for which the artists of the Renaissance were
so famed. The Corinthian capitals, more elongated than those of
the consecrated Greek form, are very elegant. The pictures and
ornaments are specimens of overcharged bad taste and meaningless
richness, and that is all. I must not, however, pass over in
silence, a little crucified martyr of seven years old, in carved,
painted wood, most beautifully conceived, and carried out with
exquisite delicacy. Enthusiasm, faith, and grief are all united on
the beautiful face, in childlike proportions and the most touching
manner.
We went to see the _Plaza de Toros_, which is small, and reckoned
one of the most dangerous in Spain. In order to reach it, you
pass through gardens planted with gigantic palm-trees of various
kinds. Nothing is more noble and more royal than the palm-tree. Its
large sun of leaves at the top of its grooved column, glitters so
splendidly in the lapis-lazuli of an eastern sky! Its scaly trunk,
as slender as if it were confined within a corset, reminds you so
much of a young maiden's waist, its bearing is so majestic and so
elegant. The palm-tree and the oleander are my favourite trees: the
sight of one of them causes me to feel a degree of gaiety and joy
that is truly astonishing. It seems to me as if no one could be
unhappy under their shade.
The _Plaza de Toros_ at Cadiz has no continuous _tablas_. There are
kinds of wooden screens, at certain intervals, behind which the
_toreros_ take refuge when too closely pursued. This arrangement
struck us as presenting less security than that in the other
bull-rings.
Our attention was directed to the boxes in which the bulls are
confined during the fight: they are a kind of cages, formed of
massive beams, and shut by a door which is raised like the shuttle
of a mill or the sluice of a pond. It is the custom here to goad
the bulls with sharp-pointed darts and rub them with nitric acid,
in order to render them furious: in short, all possible means are
employed to exasperate their natural disposition.
On account of the excessive heat, the bull-fights were
discontinued; a French acrobat had arranged his trestles and
tight-rope in the middle of the arena for a performance that was
to take place the next day. It was in this circus that Lord Byron
saw the bull-fight which he describes in the first canto of "Childe
Harold's Pilgrimage;" the description is poetical, but does not say
much for his knowledge of Tauromachia.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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