Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
Cadiz is surrounded by a tight girdle of ramparts, which laces in
its waist like a granite corset: a second girdle of shoals and
rocks defends it from the attacks of the waves, and yet, some few
years since, a frightful tempest rent in twain and threw down,
in several places, these formidable walls, which are more than
twenty feet thick, and immense masses of which still strew the
shore here and there. The ramparts are furnished at intervals
with stone sentry-boxes; you can walk on the glacis all round the
town, from which there is only one gate leading to the mainland,
and, as you go along, view, out at sea or on the roadstead, the
boats, feluccas, and fishing-smacks coming, going, describing
graceful curves, crossing one another, tacking about, and playing
like so many albatrosses; on the horizon, they appear nothing more
than a number of dove's feathers, carried through the air by the
capricious breeze; some of them, like the ancient Greek galleys,
have on each side of the cutwater at the prow a large eye painted
so as to resemble nature, and which appears to watch over the
vessel's progress, imparting to this part of it something that
bears a vague resemblance to the human profile. Nothing can be more
animated, more lively, and more gay than this view.
On the mole, near the gateway of the custom-house, the scene is
one of unequalled activity. A motley crowd, in which every nation
of the globe has its representative, is hurrying, at every hour
of the day, to the foot of the columns, surmounted by statues,
which decorate the quay. From the white skin and red hair of the
Englishman, down to the bronzed hide and black hair of the African,
including all the intermediate shades, such as coffee-colour,
copper, and golden-yellow, all the varieties of the human race
are assembled there. In the roads, a little further on, the
three-deckers, the frigates, and the brigs ride proudly at anchor,
hoisting every morning, to the sound of the drum, the flags of
their respective nations; the merchantmen and steamers, whose
funnels belch forth a bicoloured smoke, approach nearer to the
shore, in consequence of their drawing less water, and form the
first plan of this grand naval picture.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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