Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
There are still many people of this way of thinking in Spain, where
the so-called _Messidor_ style flourishes in all its purity. These
persons prefer to the richest and most profusely carved specimens
of Gothic architecture, all sorts of abominable edifices riddled
with windows, and _ornamented_ with Pæstumian columns, exactly as
was the case in France before the disciples of the Romantic School
had caused the public to appreciate once more the style of the
Middle Ages, and understand the meaning and the beauty of their
cathedrals. Two pointed spires, carved in zigzag, and pierced as
if with a punch, festooned, embroidered, and sculptured with most
delicate minuteness, like the bezel of a ring, spring upwards
towards Heaven with all the ardour and impetuosity of unshakable
conviction. It is very certain that the campaniles of our
incredulous times would never dare to rise thus into the air with
nothing to support them, save so much stone lacework and nerves as
thin as a spider's web. Another tower, which is also adorned with
an unheard-of profusion of sculpture, but which is not so high,
marks the spot where the arms of the cross join, and completes
the magnificence of the outline. A countless number of statues,
representing saints, archangels, kings, and monks, ornament the
whole; and this population of stone is so numerous, so crowded, so
multitudinous, that it must most certainly exceed the population in
flesh and blood that inhabit the town.
Thanks to the charming politeness of the political chief, Don
Enrico de Vedia, we were enabled to visit the cathedral most
minutely. An octavo volume of description, a folio of two thousand
plates, and twenty rooms filled with plaster casts would not be
sufficient to convey a complete idea of this prodigious production
of Gothic art with its immense mass of sculptures, more thick and
more complicated than a virgin forest in Brazil. Such being the
case, we shall, perhaps, be pardoned for some few slight omissions
and instances of seeming negligence, having been obliged to
scribble these lines hastily and from recollection, on the table of
a posada.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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