Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
Since we are on the subject of sculpture, we may as well seize
the opportunity to speak of the stalls in the choir, which, as a
piece of admirable joinery, have not, perhaps, their equals in
the world. The stalls are so many marvels. They represent subjects
in bas-relief from the Old Testament, and are separated from each
other by monsters and fantastic animals shaped like the arms of a
chair. The flat portions are covered with incrustations, the effect
of which is heightened by black hatching, like inlaid enamel-work
on metal. It is impossible for arabesques or caprice to be carried
to a greater length. These stalls contain an inexhaustible mine,
an unheard-of abundance, a never-ending novelty, both of ideas and
forms: they are a new world, a creation of themselves, marvellously
rich and complete; a world in which the plants live, the men bud
forth, a branch ends in a hand, and a leg terminates in foliage;
a world in which the cunning-eyed monster spreads out his taloned
wings, and the monstrous dolphin spouts the water through its
nostrils. They form one inextricable entwining of buds and boughs,
acanthuses, water-lilies, flowers, with chalices ornamented with
tufts and tendrils, of serrated and twisted foliage, fabulous
birds, impossible fish, and extravagant sirens and dragons, of
which no tongue could ever give an idea. The wildest fancy reigns
unrestrained in all these incrustations, whose yellow tone causes
them to stand out from the sombre background of the wood, and
gives them the appearance of the paintings on Etruscan vases; an
appearance which is fully justified by the boldness and primitive
accent of their lines. These designs, from which the pagan spirit
of the Renaissance peeps out, have nothing in common with the
destination of the stalls themselves; in fact, the subject selected
very frequently shows an entire forgetfulness of the sacred
character of the place. They represent either children playing with
masks, women dancing, gladiators wrestling, peasants engaged in the
vintage, young girls teasing or caressing some fanciful monster,
animals playing the harp, or even little boys, in the basin of a
fountain imitating the famous statue at Brussels. Were they but
a little more slender in their proportions, these figures would
be equal to the purest productions of Etruscan art. Unity in the
general appearance, and infinite variety in the details, was the
difficult problem which the artists of the Middle Ages generally
succeeded in solving. Five or six paces farther on, this mass of
woodwork, so remarkable for the wildness of its execution, becomes
grave, solemn, architectural, brown in its tones, and altogether
worthy of serving as a frame to the pale and austere faces of the
canons.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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