Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
The Chapel of the Constable (_Capilla del Condestable_) forms of
itself a complete church. The tomb of Don Pedro Fernandez Velasco,
Constable of Castile, and that of his wife, occupy the middle
of the building, and are far from being its least attractive
feature: they are of white marble, magnificently sculptured. The
constable is lying in his war armour, enriched with the chastest
arabesques, from which the sacristans take _papier-maché_ casts,
to sell to visitors. The constable's wife has her little dog by
her side, while her gloves, and the brocaded flowers on her gown,
are rendered with the utmost delicacy. Both their heads repose
upon marble cushions, ornamented with their coronets and armorial
bearings. The walls of the chapel are covered with gigantic coats
of arms, while figures placed upon the entablature hold stone
staves for supporting banners and standards. The _retablo_ (which
is the name given to the architectural _façade_ before the altar)
is sculptured, painted, gilt, and covered with a profusion of
arabesques, varied by columns; it represents the Circumcision of
our Saviour, with figures the size of life. To the right, on the
same side as the portrait of Doña Mencia de Mendoza, Countess
of Haro, is a small Gothic altar, coloured, gilt, carved, and
embellished with an infinity of little figures, so light in
appearance, and so graceful in form, that any one might mistake
them for the work of Antonin Moine. On this altar there is a
Christ, carved in jet. The high altar is ornamented with silver
rays and crystal suns, which produce a singularly brilliant
flickering effect. Carved on the roof is a rose of incredible
delicacy.
Enclosed in the wainscoting of the sacristy, near the chapel,
is a Magdalen, said to be by Leonardo da Vinci. The mildness of
the brown half-tints, merging into the light by imperceptible
gradations, the lightness of touch remarkable in the hair, and the
perfect rounding of the arms, render this supposition extremely
probable. In this chapel, also, is preserved the ivory diptych
that the constable used to take with him to the army, and before
which he was accustomed to recite his prayers. The _Capilla del
Condestable_ belongs to the Duke de Frias. Cast a glance, as you
pass, on that statue of Saint Bruno, in coloured wood,--it is by
Pereida, a Portuguese sculptor,--and on that epitaph, which is that
of Villegas, the translator of Dante.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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