Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
It is on leaving the Department of the Charente that the traveller
meets with the first of the _Landes_, those monster patches of
grey, violet, and bluish land, diversified with undulations of
various depths. A kind of short and scanty moss, red-tinged
heather, and some dwarf broom compose all the vegetation. The
desolation is that of the Egyptian Thebaid, and every minute you
expect to see a file of dromedaries and camels; it seems as if the
spot had never been pressed by the foot of man.
After traversing the _Landes_, you enter a tolerably picturesque
region. Here and there along the road are groups of houses,
concealed like birds' nests in the thickets. These houses remind
one of the pictures of Hobbema, with their large roofs, their walls
over-run with wild vine, their well-grown wondering-eyed oxen and
their poultry foraging on the dung-hills. All the houses, by the
way, as well as the garden walls, are built of stone. On every side
are to be seen the beginning of buildings afterwards abandoned
out of pure caprice, and recommenced a few paces further on. The
inhabitants almost resemble children when they get a birthday
present of a "box of bricks," with which, by the aid of a certain
number of square-cut pieces of wood, all sorts of edifices may be
constructed. They unroof their houses, remove the stones, and with
the very same ones build another edifice of a totally different
character. On the road-side are blooming gardens, surrounded by
fine trees with beautifully fresh foliage, and variegated with peas
in blossom, daisies, and roses; the eye at the same time roaming
over meadows, where the cows are almost hidden by the grass which
reaches to their breasts. A cross path all redolent of hawthorn
and eglantine, a group of trees, beneath which is seen an empty
wagon, a country-girl or two, with their spreading caps like the
turban of the Turkish Ulemas, and with their narrow yellow skirts,
offer a thousand little unexpected details which charm the eye and
diversify the route. By slightly glazing the scarlet tint of the
roofs with a little bitumen, you might think yourself in Normandy.
Flers and Cabat would here find pictures ready made to their
hand. It is about this latitude that the "_berets_" begin to show
themselves. They are all blue, and the elegance of their form is
greatly superior to that of the hat.
Hereabouts, too, the first vehicles drawn by oxen are to be met
with. These wagons have rather a Homeric and primitive appearance.
The oxen are harnessed by the head to a common yoke covered with
a small head-piece of sheepskin. They have a mild, grave, and
resigned look, which is pre-eminently sculptural, and worthy of the
Elginetic bas-reliefs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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