War Gardens: A Pocket Guide for Home Vegetable GrowersFree, Montague
History
War Gardens: A Pocket Guide for Home Vegetable Growers
Free, Montague
Vegetable gardening
Those who contemplate taking over a piece of land for the purpose of
growing vegetables should, if the land has not previously produced a
crop, obtain the opinion of a competent gardener as to its possibilities
from a gardening standpoint. Such men are usually available in every
community, and as a rule are glad to help. If expert opinion is not
available, the novice can form an approximate idea of its value by
making careful observations in the following manner. Take notice of the
vegetation growing on the plot. If it is luxuriant and consists mostly
of grasses it will probably be all right for growing vegetables. Dig
holes here and there with a spade or trowel and examine the soil. If you
find, an inch or two below the surface, nothing but tin cans and broken
bottles it is not a safe gardening proposition. Neither should you go
ahead if you find only a thin layer of topsoil, two or three inches,
above the subsoil. It is usually easy to tell the difference between
what is known as topsoil and subsoil. The topsoil is darker in color,
due to the presence of humus, and of a finer texture. This topsoil
should be at least eight inches deep to get good results. Soils which
contain too many large stones should be avoided, also those which
consist of only a thin layer overlying a rock ledge.
Most vegetables succeed best in a soil that is slightly alkaline, and
land intended for garden use should be tested with litmus paper to
discover if acid is present in excess. Take a piece of blue litmus paper
and press it upon a handful of moist soil. If it turns red it indicates
the presence of acid and the advisability of liming. Lime is a valuable
element in the soil, as it assists in making plant foods soluble. It is
best applied in the fall, spreading it over the surface and digging or
plowing it in. It can also be applied in the spring, but in no case
should it be put on so that it comes in direct contact with manure. Lime
applied with manure causes ammonia to be liberated too rapidly in the
form of gas, which escapes into the air, and thus much of the fertility
of the manure is lost. When it is necessary to apply lime in the spring,
the manure should first be dug or plowed under, and the lime then spread
on the surface, and raked or harrowed in. Use about 20 pounds of
air-slaked lime or 30 to 40 pounds of ground limestone to 400 square
feet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account