Watching on the RhineMarkham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
History
Watching on the Rhine
Markham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
Cologne (Germany) -- Description and travel; Germany -- Description and travel; World War, 1914-1918 -- Germany
One of the real advantages of life in Cologne is the charm of the
surrounding neighbourhood. Not that the neighbourhood to which I refer
is near at hand or very accessible except by train or by motor car.
Cologne lies in the centre of a great fertile plain, through which the
Rhine flows nobly in that last stage of its career before entering the
mud flats of Holland. At a distance varying from ten to fifteen miles
the plain east and west is bounded by a chain of low hills broken up,
especially on the eastern side, by delicious valleys. Here are woods
and trout streams, meadows and flowers. No district with which I am
acquainted is more adapted to walks, delightful without being arduous,
or to longer expeditions by motor. These low hills commanding the plain
abound in views of extraordinary vastness and extent. The hills are so
easily climbed! Yet from their summits the wanderer has the impression
that the kingdoms of the earth lie spread at his feet. For very little
real exertion, therefore, he has the impression of having mastered some
Alpine peak--an observation for which I hope I may be pardoned by any
member of the Alpine Club.
From the eastern ridge, known as the Bergische Land, the sunset view
is one of special beauty. The cultivated slopes and pasture lands fall
away gently to the plain below, in spring fresh with the vivid green
of young grass or corn, in autumn rich with harvest gold. In the
distance, chimneys stretching north and south reveal the course of the
Rhine, whose waters are hidden from view. Far away to the left is the
outline of the Siebengebirge mounting guard over Bonn and the entrance
to the romantic reach of the stream known as the Rheingau. Above the
chimneys and the remote huddle of houses and factories, the twin spires
of Cologne Cathedral, their clumsiness softened by distance, raise
their symbol of man’s hope and aspiration to heaven.
The low range lying on the west side of Cologne known as the
Vorgebirge is less attractive than the Bergische Land to the east.
Industry preponderates on this side, for the Vorgebirge is of special
importance owing to the famous black coal extracted from the hills.
Here is dug, without any apparatus of shafts or sinking, a special
brown deposit which, pressed and pounded, turns into the briquettes on
which Cologne relies for its light and heat. The presence in the near
neighbourhood of this ample supply of cheap fuel has been a factor of
the utmost importance in the commercial development of Cologne. We of
the Occupation have learnt to bless the black briquettes, which feed
the central heating in winter and give us abundant electric light
throughout the year.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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