Waves and ripples in water, air, and æther : $b Being a course of Christmas lectures delivered at the Royal Institution of Great BritainFleming, J. A. (John Ambrose), Sir
Science
Waves and ripples in water, air, and æther : $b Being a course of Christmas lectures delivered at the Royal Institution of Great Britain
Fleming, J. A. (John Ambrose), Sir
Electric waves; Sound; Waves
A very well known and striking natural phenomenon is the so-called
“bore” in certain tidal rivers or estuaries. It is well seen on the
Severn in certain states of the tide and wind. The tidal wave returning
along the Severn channel, which narrows rapidly as it leaves the coast,
becomes converted into a “canal wave,” and travels with great rapidity
up the channel. The front side of this great wave takes an almost
vertical position, resembling an advancing wall of water, and works
great havoc with boats and shipping which have had the misfortune to be
left in its path. To understand more completely how a “bore” is formed,
the reader must be reminded of the cause of all tidal phenomena. Any
one who lives by the sea or an estuary knows well that the sea-level
rises and falls twice every 24 hours, and that the average interval of
time between high water and high water is nearly 12¹⁄₂ hours. The cause
of this change of level in the water-surface is the attraction exerted
by the sun and moon upon the ocean. The earth is, so to speak, clothed
with a flexible garment of water, and this garment is pulled out of
shape by the attractive force of our luminaries; very roughly speaking,
we may say that the ocean-surface is distorted into a shape called an
ellipsoid, and that there are therefore two elevations of water which
march across the sea-covered regions of the earth as it revolves on
its axis. These elevations are called the _tidal waves_. The effects,
however, are much complicated by the fact that the ocean does not cover
all parts of the earth. There is no difficulty in showing that, as
the tidal wave progresses round the earth across each great ocean, it
produces an elevation of the sea-surface which is not simultaneous at
all places. The time when the crest of the tidal wave reaches any place
is called the “time of high tide.” Thus if we consider an estuary, such
as that of the Thames, there is a marked difference between the time of
high tide as we ascend the estuary.
Taking three places, Margate, Gravesend, and London Bridge, we find
that if the time of high tide at Margate is at noon on any day, then it
is high tide at Gravesend at 2.15 p.m., and at London Bridge a little
before three o’clock. This difference is due to the time required for
the tidal wave to travel up the estuary of the Thames.
When an estuary contracts considerably as it proceeds, as is the case
with the Bristol Channel, then the range of the tide or the height of
the tidal wave becomes greatly increased as it travels up the gradually
narrowing channel, because the wave is squeezed into a smaller space.
For example, the range of spring tides at the entrance of the Bristol
Channel is about 18 feet, but at Chepstow it is about 50 feet.[9] At
oceanic ports in open sea the range of the tide is generally only 2 or
3 feet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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