Waves and ripples in water, air, and æther : $b Being a course of Christmas lectures delivered at the Royal Institution of Great BritainFleming, J. A. (John Ambrose), Sir
Science
Waves and ripples in water, air, and æther : $b Being a course of Christmas lectures delivered at the Royal Institution of Great Britain
Fleming, J. A. (John Ambrose), Sir
Electric waves; Sound; Waves
If we look at the map of England, we shall see how rapidly the Bristol
Channel contracts, and hence, as the tidal wave advances from the
Atlantic Ocean, it gets jambed up in this rapidly contracting channel,
and as the depth of the channel in which it moves rapidly shallows,
the rear portion of this tidal wave, being in deeper water, travels
faster than the front part and overtakes it, producing thus a flat or
straight-fronted wave which goes forward with tremendous speed.[10]
We must, in the next place, turn our attention to the study of water
_ripples_. The term “ripple” is generally used to signify a very small
and short wave, and in ordinary language it is not distinguished from
what might be called a wavelet, or little wave. There is, however,
a scientific distinction between a wave and a ripple, of a very
fundamental character.
It has already been stated that a wave can only exist, or be created,
in or on a medium which resists in an elastic manner some displacement.
The ordinary water-surface wave is termed a _gravitation wave_, and
it exists because the water-surface resists being made unlevel. There
is, however, another thing which a water-surface resists. It offers
an opposition to small stretching, in virtue of what is called its
_surface tension_. In a popular manner the matter may thus be stated:
The surface of every liquid is covered with a sort of skin which, like
a sheet of indiarubber, resists stretching, and in fact contracts under
existing conditions so as to become as small as possible. We can see an
illustration of this in the case of a soap-bubble. If a bubble is blown
on a rather wide glass tube, on removing the mouth the bubble rapidly
shrinks up, and the contained air is squeezed out of the tube with
sufficient force to blow out a candle held near the end of the tube.
Again, if a dry steel sewing-needle is laid gently in a horizontal
position on clean water, it will float, although the metal itself is
heavier than water. It floats because the weight of the needle is not
sufficient to break through the surface film. It is for this reason
that very small and light insects can run freely over the surface of
water in a pond.
This surface tension is, however, destroyed or diminished by placing
various substances on the water. Thus if a small disc of writing-paper
the size of a wafer is placed on the surface of clean water in a
saucer, it will rest in the middle. The surface film of the water on
which it rests is, however, strained or pulled equally in different
directions. If a wire is dipped in strong spirits of wine or whisky,
and one side of the wafer touched with the drop of spirit, the paper
shoots away with great speed in the opposite direction. The surface
tension on one side has been diminished by the spirit, and the equality
of tension destroyed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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