Waves and ripples in water, air, and æther : $b Being a course of Christmas lectures delivered at the Royal Institution of Great BritainFleming, J. A. (John Ambrose), Sir
Science
Waves and ripples in water, air, and æther : $b Being a course of Christmas lectures delivered at the Royal Institution of Great Britain
Fleming, J. A. (John Ambrose), Sir
Electric waves; Sound; Waves
These experiments and many others show us that we must regard the
surface of a liquid as covered with an invisible film, which is in a
state of stretch, or which resists stretching. If we imagine a jam-pot
closed with a cover of thin sheet indiarubber pulled tightly over it,
it is clear that any attempt to make puckers, pleats, or wrinkles in it
would involve stretching the indiarubber. It is exactly the same with
water. If very _small_ wrinkles or pleats, as waves, are made on its
surface, the resistance which is brought into play is that due to the
surface tension, and not merely the resistance of the surface to being
made unlevel. Wavelets so made, or due to the above cause, are called
_ripples_.
It can be shown by mathematical reasoning[11] that on the free
surface of a liquid, like water, what are called _capillary ripples_
can be made by agitations or movements of a certain kind, and the
characteristic of these surface-tension waves or capillary ripples, as
compared with gravitation waves, is that the velocity of propagation
of the capillary ripple is _less_ the greater the wave-length, whereas
the velocity of gravitation on ordinary surface waves is _greater_ the
greater the wave-length.
It follows from this that for any liquid, such as water, there is a
certain length of wave which travels most slowly. This slowest wave is
the dividing line between what are properly called ripples, and those
that are properly called waves. In the case of water this slowest wave
has a wave-length of about two-thirds of an inch (0·68 inch), and a
speed of travel approximately of 9 inches (0·78 foot) per second.
More strictly speaking, the matter should be explained as follows: Sir
George Stokes showed, as far back as 1848, that the surface tension
of a liquid should be taken into account in finding the pressure at
the free surface of a liquid. It was not, however, until 1871 that
Lord Kelvin discussed the bearing of this fact on the formation of
waves, and gave a mathematical expression for the velocity of a wave of
oscillatory type on a liquid surface, in which the wave-length, surface
tension, density, and the acceleration of gravity were taken into
account. The result was to show that when waves are very short, viz. a
small fraction of an inch, they are principally due to surface tension,
and when long are entirely due to gravity.
It can easily be seen that ripples run faster the smaller their
wave-length. If we take a thin wire and hold it perpendicularly in
water, and then move it quickly parallel to itself, we shall see a
stationary pattern of ripples round the wire which moves with it.
These ripples are smaller and closer together the faster the wire is
moved.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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