Waves and ripples in water, air, and æther : $b Being a course of Christmas lectures delivered at the Royal Institution of Great BritainFleming, J. A. (John Ambrose), Sir
Science
Waves and ripples in water, air, and æther : $b Being a course of Christmas lectures delivered at the Royal Institution of Great Britain
Fleming, J. A. (John Ambrose), Sir
Electric waves; Sound; Waves
Strictly speaking, the wave-length may be defined as the shortest
distance from crest to crest, or hollow to hollow, or from one particle
to the next one which is in the same stage of its movement at the same
time.
Another way of illustrating the same thing would be to pleat or pucker
a sheet of paper into parallel ridges. If we make these pleats very
narrow, they would represent what we call _short waves_; but if we make
these pleats very far apart, they would represent _long waves_.
Another phrase much used is the term _wave-velocity_. Suppose that
a seagull were to fly along over a set of sea waves so as to keep
always above one particular hump, or wave-crest; the speed of the gull,
reckoned in miles per hour or feet per minute, would be called the
speed of the waves. This is something very different from the actual
speed of each particle of water.
A third and constantly used expression is the term _wave-frequency_. If
we watch a cork floating on a wave-tossed sea, we observe that it bobs
up and down so many times in a minute. The number of times per second
or per minute that each particle of the medium performs its cycle of
motion is called the wave-frequency, or simply _the frequency_.
Again, we employ the term _amplitude_ to denote the extreme distance
that each individual particle of the medium moves from its mean
position, or position of rest. In speaking of sea waves, we generally
call the vertical distance between the crest and the hollow the
_height_ of the wave, and this is twice the amplitude. With regard to
the height of sea waves, there is generally much exaggeration. Voyagers
are in the habit of speaking of “waves running mountains high,” yet a
sea wave which exceeds 40 feet in height is a rare sight. Waves have
been measured on the Southern Indian Ocean, between the Cape of Good
Hope and the Island of St. Paul, and of thirty waves observed the
average height was found to be just under 30 feet. The highest was only
37¹⁄₂ feet in height. On the other hand, waves of 16 to 20 feet are
not uncommon. Travellers who have crossed the Atlantic Ocean in stormy
weather will often recount experiences of waves said to be 100 feet
high; but these are exceedingly rare, if even ever met with, and unless
wave-heights are obtained by some accurate method of measurement, the
eye of the inexperienced voyager is apt to be deceived.
In all cases of wave-motion there is a very close connection between
the wave-velocity, or speed, the wave-length, and the wave-frequency.
This connection is expressed by the numerical law that the velocity is
equal to the product of the length and the frequency.
Thus, supposing we consider the case of Atlantic waves 300 feet from
crest to crest, which are travelling at the rate of 27 miles an hour,
it is required to calculate the frequency or number of times per minute
or per second that any floating object, say a boat, will be lifted up
as these waves pass over it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account