Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoringDixon, Winifred Hawkridge
General
Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoring
Dixon, Winifred Hawkridge
Automobile travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
Socialists and horse-thieves we did not encounter; it must have been
the Baptists, then, who were responsible for the law putting citizens
who purchase gasoline on Sunday in the criminal class. Unluckily
the easy-going garage man who obligingly gave us all other possible
information neglected to tell us of this restriction on Saturday
night. Accordingly, when we started on Sunday morning, we had only
five gallons and a hundred odd miles to go. We had no desire to meet
Houston’s judiciary again.
A little group of advisers gathered to discuss our problem. The road
our New York optimist had routed for us as “splendid going all the
way” was a sea of mud. Four mule teams could not pull us out, we were
told. Three months of steady rain had reduced the State of Texas to
a state of “gumbo.” Each man had a tale of encounter and defeat for
each road suggested. Each declared the alternatives suggested by the
others impossible. But, at last, came one who had “got through” by the
Sugarland road the day before. He voiced the definition of a good road
in Texas, a definition which we frequently encountered afterward.
“The road’s all right, ef yo’ don’t boag, otherwise you’ll find it
kinder rough.”
With this dubious encouragement we started, at nine in the morning,
hoping the Baptists further out in the country would grow lenient in
the matter of gasoline, as the square of their distance from Houston.
It was a heavenly day, the sun hot and the vibrant blue sky belying
the sodden fields and brimming ditches. The country, brown and faintly
rolling, under the warmth of the Southern springtime was reminiscent of
the Roman Campagna. Song sparrows filled the air with abrupt showers of
music, and now and then a bald and black-winged buzzard thudded down
into a nearby field. For miles on both sides of the road we saw only
black soil soaked and muddy, with rivers for furrows, and only a few
brown stalks standing from last year’s cotton or rice crop. The eternal
flatness of the country suggested a reason for the astounding height
of the loose-jointed Texans we had seen; they had to be tall to make
any impression on the landscape. It accounted, too, for their mild,
easy-going, unhurried and unhurriable ways. What is the use of haste,
when as much landscape as ever still stretches out before one?
Before we reached Sugarland, a lonesome group of houses on what had
once been a huge sugar plantation, our misgivings began. Mud in Texas
has a different meaning from mud in Massachusetts; it means gumbo,
morasses, Sargasso Seas, broken axles, abandoned cars. From the
reiteration of the words, “Yo’ may git through, but I think yo’ll boag”
we began to realize that it was easier to get into Texas, even through
the eye of the police court, than to get out of it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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