I visited Valparaiso and again met Cockney Spider. He was still at his
old business, conducting a runaway sailors' boarding house. A few
weeks later found me in Panama, an engineer on the Panama and
Aspinwall railroad. The climate, I believe, is the most wretched in
the world, and tropical vegetation grows the rankest. In a few months
I was stricken with the yellow fever, but thanks to my robust
constitution I soon recovered. About this time I met an official of
the government railway at Ilo, who desired me to return and accept a
position as engineer on the road. I told him of my troubles in that
town with the officials. He met me soon afterwards, with a contract
duly drawn up for eighteen months' service and a guarantee that I
should not be molested by any petty official.
When I arrived at Ilo, imagine my surprise to find that the man who
rowed me ashore was the Italian who caused my arrest. He offered to
shake hands but I refused. When I went to the hotel many of my old
native friends came to see me, and informed me that after I had left
they discovered the person who did the shooting. It was done by one of
their own number, who managed to get away.
It was very gratifying to thus have my innocence established, but it
did not recompense for the time I had spent in jail and the loss of
money.
I had been running a train out of Ilo about a month, when one night I
was invited to a "wake." Having never attended one, I accepted the
invitation. At one end of the room stood a large table, and upon it
the body of a child two years old. On its head was a wreath of
flowers. The child was dressed in white; in its tiny hands was a
bouquet of flowers; the feet were encased in small white slippers;
lighted candles surrounded the body. At either end of the table were
several old women, who were employed by the family as mourners, and
they kept up a continual low moaning sound. Occasionally they would
stop to partake of wine, and start again, more dismal than ever. The
room was large and on each side were seated ladies and gentlemen
talking and laughing and seemingly enjoying themselves. The parents of
the dead child appeared to have surpassed the expectations of their
friends and made a great success of the "wake."
There is a custom in Peru that when several persons are gathered
together there is constant drinking. A large bottle of wine or
whiskey is placed on the table with one glass. A lady or gentleman
will fill the glass and drink to the health of some one present. It is
bad form to leave any liquor in the glass, so it is always drained,
refilled and presented to the one whose health has been drunk. It is
an insult to refuse to drink, after one has drank to your health and
the person accepting the glass drinks to the health of some one else.
In this manner the glass is constantly on the move. On this occasion,
the wine was on the table with the corpse.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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