Dampier was very willing to accept Captain Weldon's offer of this
voyage, as the vessel carried a surgeon whose advice he was in great
need of. Moreover Weldon promised to purchase a sloop at Tonquin and
make him master of her for a trading voyage to Cochin China. Nothing
noteworthy marked their passage. On their arrival at the Bay of Tonquin
they navigated the ship about twenty miles up the river and anchored.
The chief markets and trade of the country were then at Cachao, a
city eighty miles distant from the highest point at which the river
is navigable by vessels of burthen. Dampier, in company with the
captains of other ships, proceeded in large boats towards Cachao.
It was scarcely more than a jaunt for our hero, whose main business
in going the journey was to talk over the proposed voyage to Cochin
China with the chief of the English factory. Dampier remained for a
week with the Englishmen at the factory, and then returned to his own
ship, “where,” says he, “I lay on board for a great while, and sickly
for the most part; yet not so but that I took a boat and went ashoar
one where or other almost every day.” The result of this intrepid
observation is a full and interesting account of Tonquin, the habits
and customs of the people, their attire, sports, punishments, religion,
and literature. His health hindered him from several undertakings which
he might have pursued with advantage. For example, rice being dear at
Cachao, Weldon hired a vessel to procure that commodity at adjacent
places to supply the markets. It was a speculation by which Dampier
might have got money, but he was too ill to bear a part in it. He lay
five or six weeks in a miserable condition, then flattered himself
that he was sufficiently recovered to go on a walking tour through
the country. To this end he hired a native guide, who charged him a
dollar for his services, “which,” he says, “tho' but a small matter,
was a great deal out of my Pocket, who had not above 2 Dollars in all,
which I had gotten on board by teaching some of our young Seamen Plain
Sailing.” He started about the end of November 1688, and the proverbial
heedlessness of the seaman is not less suggested by his poverty than by
his resolution to attempt such a trip as this. He has but a dollar in
his pocket with which not only to bear his own but his guide's charges,
and yet he is fully aware that his weakness is bound to increase the
cost of his travels by obliging him to proceed by short stages. He says
he was weary of lying still and impatient to see something that might
further gratify his curiosity. They took the east side of the river,
and trudged along mutely enough, as we may suppose, since the guide
could not speak a word of English, whilst Dampier did not understand
a syllable of Tonquinese. At the villages they arrived at they were
sufficiently fortunate to procure rooms to sleep in and a couch of
split bamboos to lie on. The people treated Dampier very civilly; they
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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