cooked his repasts of rice for him, and lent him whatever they had
that was serviceable to him. His practice was to ramble about all day,
and return to his lodging when it was too dark to see anything more.
His luggage was small—limited to what he terms a “sea-gown,” which his
guide carried, and which served him as a blanket at night, whilst his
pillow was often a log of wood. “But,” he says, “I slept very well,
though the weakness of my body did now require better accommodation.”
On the afternoon of the third day of his travels he arrived in view of
a small wooden tower such as the Tonquinese erect as funeral pyres to
persons of distinction. He had never seen such a thing before, and as
his guide could not talk to him, he continued ignorant of its meaning.
There was a crowd of men and boys near it, and he also noticed a number
of stalls covered with meat and fruit. He very naturally concluded that
it was a market-place, and entered the crowd partly with the intention
of inspecting the tower, and partly with the idea of purchasing a dish
of meat for his supper. After satisfying his curiosity he approached
the stalls and laid hold of a joint of meat, motioning to a person
whom he supposed was the salesman to cut off a piece that should weigh
two or three pounds. In an instant the crowd fell upon him. They
struck out at him right and left, tore his clothes and ran away with
his hat. The guide, shrieking unintelligible protests and apologies,
dragged Dampier away, but they were followed for some distance by a
number of surly-looking fellows whose cries and gesticulations were
full of menace. It was not until long afterwards that Dampier gathered
the meaning of all this; when he was informed that what he had taken
to be a market was a funeral feast, and that the tower was a tomb
which was to be consumed along with the body in it after the feast was
over. “This,” says he, “was the only Funeral Feast that ever I was at
amongst them, and they gave me cause to remember it: but this was the
worst usage I received from any of them all the time that I was in the
Country.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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