Automobile travel; France -- Description and travel
In the square beyond stands the Hôtel de Ville which shelters in its
courtyard an excellent statue of Mirabeau, and just outside rises
one of the old towers of the city, now dedicated by a tablet to the
souls of those who have lost their lives for their country. A young
woman under its shadow tells me that I shall find the Cathedral just
beyond, and in company with the archiepiscopal palace and the little
university, there it stands in a square by itself. The Cathedral of
St. Sauveur is very ancient. As I enter, the whole interior rests in
silence save for the droning voice of some priest. Candles twinkle
before the many altars, and the sunlight filters through the trees
outside and the painted windows, casting wavering shadows down upon
the empty aisles and many tombs. In the nave one may see the portraits
of King René and his second wife Jeanne de Laval, and as you gaze upon
them, the picture of his life unrolls itself across your mental vision.
Born in the grim castle of Angers in 1409, René was married when but
twelve years of age and his eldest child came on earth when the father
was but eighteen. Eventually René, Duke of Bar and Lorraine, became
Duke of Anjou, Count of Provence, and King of the two Sicilies. Though
he held the last-named honour but eight years he never surrendered the
title. He was a friend of Agnes Sorel and of Joan of Arc, women much
more to his liking than his fierce daughter Margaret. René gave all his
love to this land of Provence where his palace stood intact--here in
Aix--until destroyed most wantonly in 1786. His progress thither was by
state barges up and down the rivers--on the Loire to Roanne and thence
over land to the Rhone at Lyons and so to Tarascon. Music and flowers,
sunshine and happiness seem to have been his portion, yet there was one
shadow--that of Louis XI. then the dauphin, whom he met for the first
time in the Castle of Tarascon. At Tarascon he instituted the Order of
the Crescent and held a fête which is remembered to this day. To his
credit it is recorded that he gave protection to Jacques Coeur, fleeing
from the ingratitude and treachery of Charles VII., and enabled him to
escape into Italy. Having already said farewell to France and Anjou,
René plainly saw the absorption of his beloved Provence by King Louis.
His picture--some say painted by himself--here in the Cathedral does
not impress one strongly. He was too old when it was done and while
interesting and beautiful in detail one does not linger long in its
contemplation. This cathedral was four hundred years old when René was
born and portions of it date far before that, being of Roman origin.
Especially is this the case in the baptistery whose superb columns
came from the temple of Apollo. The cloisters are quaint and most
interesting, and the temptation to linger is strong upon me, but time
presses and so I pass outward and down the queer streets to where Jean
solemnly seated in the Red Machine awaits my pleasure.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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