Looking to its crowds of fashionable loungers, who come to it
professedly for health, but seemingly as much for amusement, Nice may be
styled the continental Brighton. One thing, as at Brighton, has greatly
added to its fascinations. This is the Promenade des Anglais, stretching
a mile along the shore, and forming from morning to night the place of
concourse for throngs of idlers. The spacious promenade for pedestrians
is divided by a row of sub-tropical plants, including specimens of the
pepper-tree and date-palm, from a broad drive, where ladies in the
fantastic dresses of the period, with a taste for fast living and public
exhibition, indulge in driving backwards and forwards with a fury not
usual with their sex in our more sober-minded country. To do them
justice, they leave the lashing of the ponies to the driver, who sits
behind them with a long whip, with which he seems to have much pleasure
in inflicting pain on the poor animals. This species of cruelty meets
with no reprobation from the onlookers; and from the immunity shewn to
the practice, I should infer that in France there is no law repressive
of cruelty to animals. I regretted to observe that these fast young
ladies were generally English. With its promenades, drives, balls,
cercle, Jardin Public, musical band, theatres, shops of various kinds
where every luxury may be obtained, and abundance of street carriages,
Nice offers a choice of attractions, independently of its fine air and
sunshine. Besides the cathedral and numerous other Roman Catholic
churches, the town now possesses an English and a Scotch church, both
handsome new buildings. At kiosks on the Quai Masséna, several Paris
daily newspapers may be purchased. Letters and papers from England are
delivered twice a day, Sunday included. For persons studiously inclined,
there is a large public Bibliothèque supported by the commune, where
books (of course in French literature) may be freely consulted or read
by strangers as well as natives. There are likewise two good circulating
libraries with English books—that of Visconti a really excellent
collection, associated with a capital reading-room. To accommodate the
numerous fashionable visitors, as also the more steady order of winter
sojourners, there are now divers hotels of huge dimensions, and every
succeeding year seems to increase the number. They are for the greater
part situated on the quays overlooking the Paillon, also in the Jardin
Public, and in the terrace-like line of street along the Promenade des
Anglais. The house which after sundry trials I found preferable was the
Hôtel d’Angleterre, in the Jardin Public, kept by M. Steinbrück, who
speaks English and is married to an Englishwoman; both are most vigilant
in attending to the comfort of their guests. All the hotels have
omnibuses which wait the arrival and attend the departure of the trains.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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