Although Nice is now a French town, the humbler classes remain
essentially Italian of the old Savoy type. The dresses of the women are
picturesque, and their favourite mode of carrying things is to poise
them on the top of the head. The peculiar costumes of the district are
well represented in the wooden mosaics which form a remarkable local
manufacture. I have never returned home from Nice without purchasing
specimens of these beautiful _mosaïques en bois_, at the shop of the
brothers Mignon, in the Rue Paradis. On the last occasion, I received an
interesting account of how they were prepared. The pictorial effects
are, it is said, wholly a result of the varying tints of different kinds
of wood grown in the neighbourhood; all being ingeniously shaped and put
together without any aid from artificial colouring. As the intrinsic
value of the small pieces of wood employed must be insignificant—a
pennyworth probably being wrought up in a mosaic which will sell for a
couple of napoleons—we have here a striking instance of how national
wealth may be increased by exerting artistic ability on materials which
are, of themselves, worthless.
Considering its extent, its numerous attractions, its choice of society,
and its abundance of hotels, _pensions_, and villas and floors to be let
for hire, Nice, as a place of agreeable resort, has a prodigious
advantage over Mentone, which is in a comparatively primitive condition,
with much to be done to bring it up to the Nicean finish. To all its
recommendable qualities, Nice has further added a supply of pure water
led on in pipes from the hilly ground behind; and this is a thing of
first importance. If the public authorities would be but a little more
liberal in their supply of scavengers to scrape and sweep the streets
and by-ways, and to prevent the accumulation of nauseous rubbish on the
shore side of the Promenade, they would merit a tribute of thanks from
every one who makes a sojourn in the town. Granting all that can be said
in admiration of the Queen of the Mediterranean, the question remains as
to its availableness in a matter where health is so intimately
concerned. In its very imposing size and stylish way of living there is,
I fear, something objectionable. Health-seekers ought not as a rule to
care for balls, theatrical representations, or the lavish exhibition of
finery. What they generally want is the re-invigoration of an enfeebled
constitution, through simple and natural agencies. Wherefore, the
sea-side, the rural hamlet, or any other place where, by abandoning
artificialities, Nature has fair-play to strengthen the animal system,
is what is sought after. On this account, as well as on its higher
claims in point of shelter and climate, there is no room to hesitate.
Pleasure-seekers, or those to whom a town-life is indispensable, will
stop at Nice; the less sophisticated will go twenty miles farther, and,
with all its deficiencies, bask in the very garden of the Riviera.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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