Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
On the south side of the cathedral, in the piazza, we found the little
church of the Misericordia, belonging to that peculiar body of monks
who, dressed in long black cloaks, with black masks over their faces
pierced by eyeholes, are to be occasionally seen going about Florence
and elsewhere in procession with the dead, which they bury, taking
thus the place of the relations, who, in some parts of Italy, seem to
abandon their friends when they die, and appear regardless of what
becomes of their remains. We saw the chapel upon Ascension Day, which
was a great holiday, or, to speak more exactly, _holy_ day in Florence.
On that occasion it was, like other churches, crammed to the door with
a changing audience, and, after pushing our way in, we were as glad to
push our way out again.
The churches of Santa Croce, S.S. Annunciata, Santa Maria Novella,
and San Lorenzo are among the finest. They contain beautiful marble
monuments, altar paintings, and other decorations which it would be
endless to mention. The large church of Santa Croce has a fine white
and black marble façade—rather straight and angular, however, in its
lines. It measures nearly 500 feet long, and the interior, besides
being adorned, as usual, with pictures, is the great receptacle of
monuments to illustrious Florentine men, such as Michael Angelo,
Galileo, and Machiavelli. The cloisters adjoining the church are well
worthy of a visit. Most of the important churches in Florence have the
advantage of a large open piazza in front. The vacant space surrounding
the cathedral, unfortunately, is comparatively insignificant, and it
were well if it could be enlarged. That in front of Santa Croce is
large, and is adorned by a colossal marble statue of Dante in classic
robe, attended by an eagle and guarded by four lions placed at the
corners of a suitable pedestal.
* * * * *
From the church of San Lorenzo, founded in the fourth century, and one
of the oldest churches in Italy, we were conducted by a touting guide
to the adjacent chapel of the Medici,—the princes of Florence,—and
the tombs of these princes, erected at a cost of nearly £900,000. The
chapel contains Michael Angelo’s masterpieces in sculpture—Lorenzo de
Medici as a warrior resting, but ready, while Day and Night personified
recline below, and on the opposite side Julian de Medici sits pondering
over recumbent Dawn and Twilight. Opinions, however, have differed as
to which is Lorenzo and which is Julian, and I am afraid the visitor
has, like the little boy, to ‘take his choice.’
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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