With the Empress Dowager of ChinaCarl, Katharine A. (Katharine Augusta)
History
With the Empress Dowager of China
Carl, Katharine A. (Katharine Augusta)
China -- Court and courtiers; Cixi, Empress dowager of China, 1835-1908; Empresses -- China -- Biography
This was one of the temples so ruthlessly destroyed and unnecessarily
desecrated by the Allies during their occupation of Peking. We passed
through the vegetable garden of the monks--all shorn of its glory,
but where a few vegetables and flowers still grew--and we went on
through a beautiful grove of arbor-vitæ, with centuries-old trees,
planted in the form of a cross, and came into the court of the temple.
Even in its dilapidated state, with the workmen still in it, it was
beautiful, and before it was so injured it must have been a splendid
example of Chinese temple architecture. The cells of the lama monks
were now unoccupied, and there were no officiating priests. Workmen
were repairing and regilding the Great Buddha, and most of the effigies
of the saints and images of the personified attributes were standing
in dejected rows in the corridors awaiting the completion of their
niches and chapels. The interior, of splendid proportions, glowed in
beautiful somber colors. The carved wood ceilings were in pendentive
designs, recalling those I had seen in the Alhambra; but the painting,
in primary colors, of this elaborately carved ceiling gave it a greater
richness of coloring and lent to the interior a warmer, deeper harmony
than the white Moorish designs. The chapels behind the high altar were
separated from the main temple and from each other by beautifully
carved wooden screens, with rich brocaded silk of brilliant green (the
color of Buddha), stretched behind the open-work and showing through
the interstices of the carving. These chapels are for the Sacred
writings and for the vestments of the priests, and are also used for
robing- and retiring-rooms for the officiants. They correspond to the
sacristies of the Catholic Churches in Europe.
The space behind the altar was of apse-like form, and opened upon a
semi-circular marble terrace, thirty feet high, with a balustrade of
the conventionalized lotus design so dear to the Chinese architects.
From this terrace we had a beautiful view of the Coal Hill, surmounted
by the curious Dagoba, so well known in all views of the Imperial City,
as well as of the belvedere that marks the spot where the last Emperor
of the Mings committed suicide when he was conquered. At the two
extremities of the terrace were charming octagonal summer-houses, where
the priests could go for rest and contemplation, and, while murmuring
their prayers, could feast their eyes upon a charming view. After a few
moments on the terrace, enjoying the beautiful view, we passed through
the cells of the monks, which were large and comfortable, and, finally,
out again into the sun-flecked shade of the marble-paved court, where
we sat under low-hanging boughs of a splendid elm, and the eunuchs
brought out tables and served us with tea and refreshments.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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