With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Religion
With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902
Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Mecca (Saudi Arabia); Pilgrims and pilgrimages
his purpose, and, knitting his brow in a frown of lithe resolution, he
staggered on over the rugged pathway.
The road, winding through several declivities of the valley, dips at
length into the basin-plain of the surrounding mountains. There it
takes a sharp turn to the east, which direction it keeps until on the
limits of Arafat a place called Alemeyn is reached. When we were midway
between the mosque of Khaif and the Hill of Arafat four of the camels
died from exhaustion, and the loads they bore had to be divided among
the freshest of the animals that were left. Whilst this was being done
by the _moghavem_, our torch-bearer, in a state of wild excitement
at the interruption, flung down the guiding light, and then fell to
pacing restlessly to and fro, reeling in his gait like a drunken man,
and muttering incoherently to himself; nor would he consent to pick up
the torch, despite the _moghavem’s_ repeated orders, until the caravan
resumed its march.
Shortly after, another delay was occasioned by the death of a pilgrim
who had walked all the way from Mecca supported on his brother’s arm.
The _moghavem_ refused to set the corpse on one of his asses (that
it might be buried, as the brother wished, on the holier ground of
Arafat), declaring that an additional burden would break the back of
his stoutest donkey. On this the brother burst into a storm of grief,
and my heart so ached for him in his disappointment that I volunteered
to bear the body beside me on my mule. A straggler, overhearing
this offer, cried out in broken Arabic: “If you do not lend me your
assistance, I too shall assuredly fall down and die.” Seeing that the
poor wretch was indeed worn out with sickness and fatigue, I made a
virtue of necessity and dismounted, telling him that the price of
his taking my place was that he should take care of the corpse. His
readiness to comply with this condition, which would carry with it the
necessity of religious purification, proved him to be no malingerer,
and a second glance at him was enough to assure me that he had not many
more hours to live.
All being ready, I laid hold of the mule by the bridle, and led the
dying and the dead to the front of the caravan. To my surprise, I saw
that the torch-bearer, in his anxiety to make the best use of his
remaining strength, was some distance away, and so determined was I to
keep in touch with him, and, if necessary, force him to accept my help,
that I broke into a run, as fast as I could lay my tender bare feet to
the ground. When I came up to him it was to hear a volley of musketry
which seemed to proceed from a distance of not more than two hundred
yards ahead of us; and, not long after, there came, from the rear, the
ever-nearing tramp of a troop of horsemen riding at full speed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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