With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Religion
With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902
Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Mecca (Saudi Arabia); Pilgrims and pilgrimages
The terror of the Malays, wholly undisguised, drove them into one
another’s arms. Not knowing which way to turn, they all huddled
together like a flock of sheep, while the torch-bearer, whose one
idea was proof against any danger that might beset him, broke silence
for the first time, and derided them unmercifully because of their
cowardice.
Then out stepped the Arab _moghavem_, as shepherd of the
cowering rabble, and cried: “Be not afraid, but keep close
to me!” And on this, he rushed quickly to the fore, shouting
out at the top of his voice, in the Bedouin dialect of Hejaz:
“Yá-Aghadin-ul-ghoum-Nahn-Meskinna-al-Zowarin!”
This sentence, “O tribal chieftains, we are only the poor of the
pilgrims,” he kept on repeating as he strode boldly forward: every now
and then he turned round in order to hearten the cowering wretches that
came trembling after him; but, before he had advanced a hundred paces,
the galloping in the rear grew so loud that he ordered the caravan to
halt and take whatever cover it could devise.
With a swiftness of decision, born of a common fear that the horsemen
were Bedouins on the warpath, the terrified pilgrims made the camels
kneel down at the sides of the road, and entrenched themselves behind
them, scarcely daring to breathe, lest their whereabouts should be
revealed. And no sooner had they flung themselves on the ground than
the troop came rushing past, proving itself to be a squadron of
Sherífian cavalry in pursuit of the freebooters. Much to the joy of
the pilgrims, the firing ceased almost immediately after, and the
skirmishers in front of us were heard to beat a rapid retreat on Arafat.
On the silence that ensued, came the tinkle of an approaching caravan,
to which, on the principle that there is safety in numbers, we resolved
to attach ourselves. The new-comers, forty in number, were Indian
settlers of Mecca, passive-eyed and wheedling of tongue, and with us
they were only too willing to make common cause, bearing themselves
towards us with that spirit of brotherhood which is perhaps the
most humanising characteristic of the Islamic faith. Within half an
hour’s march of Alemeyn, our united party was overtaken by a band of
professional men and women--musicians, singers, and dancers--who,
mounted on gaily-caparisoned camels, presented a vivid contrast to our
poverty-stricken pilgrims on foot. As each one went by, he or she was
greeted by our greybeards with loud derisive cries of “Astaghferallah!
Astaghferallah!” This demonstration on the part of our old men was
meant to imply that theirs was the garb of virtue, however naked
might be their wretchedness. In the same belief, I utter seventy
_Astaghferallahs_ before I venture to describe this entertaining
company.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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