With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Religion
With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902
Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Mecca (Saudi Arabia); Pilgrims and pilgrimages
Altogether they numbered thirteen persons, the musicians being men,
and the singers and dancers being the Flowers of Delight of Mecca.
First came a drummer, beating intermittently, but at regular intervals,
on a curiously shaped double drum, not unlike a huge orange cut in
two, and so joined that each part came under each hand. It is called
_nagghareh_ by the Persians, and gave forth a shrill, discordant noise,
that not even the big egg-shaped drum (Tabl), which was beaten
energetically with two long drum-sticks by the man that followed,
could drown or materially modify. Behind these drummers rode two
women singers, whose voices were as the tinkling of the heavy bangles
with which their arms and ankles were laden. Next in the line of
march was a young man with a withered face, blowing incessantly on an
instrument called _surná_, that bears a resemblance, in form and also
in tone, to a Scotch bagpipe. After him, a couple of dancing girls,
with streaming ringlets, and clad in silk dresses of many colours,
burst into rippling laughter at every second, partly because it was
their business to be merry-hearted, and partly because they found
food for mirth in the members of our caravan. But when they saw the
number of our dead--and our Indian contingent had added not less than
seven to our funeral train--their lively amusement was stilled, and
one of them said to me, on passing by: “Were I in your place, O Haji,
I should bury the corpse, and offer the seat it occupies to yonder
torch-bearer, who seems to stand in sore need of succour.” “The wishes
of the dead must be respected, O Compassionate Heart,” I replied; “and
as for the torch-bearer, nothing would persuade him to renounce his
task of self-sacrifice. He has taken a vow to perform the pilgrimage
on foot, and he comes from a far distant country.” The answer she
returned was lost in the ear-piercing squeak of a _kerná_--a woeful
wind instrument at least four feet in length--and in the scarcely
less strident din of a third tom-tom. The rear was brought up by two
men--the one thumbed a stringed _rubáb_, a Bedouin instrument admirably
adapted to the music of the wastes; while the other, the jester of
the band, had powdered his face with barley flour, and wore a tall
head-gear of white lambskin, and a long cloak of vari-coloured silk.
Casting a quizzical eye on our effects, and one look in particular on
my mule with its dual burden of the dead and the dying, he remarked,
in an audible tone, imitating the Indian accent: “_Wah, wah, wah!
Ahlul-Jehannum!_ Bah, what a hell party!”--an expression that, in face
of the open self-sufficiency of the majority among us, made me roar
with laughter. My companions, refraining from retaliation in kind,
contented themselves with repeating the word _Astaghferallah_ until
their tormentor had passed out of hearing.
[Illustration: THE MUSICIAN CAMEL CAVALCADE.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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