With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Religion
With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902
Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Mecca (Saudi Arabia); Pilgrims and pilgrimages
The reader will understand that these musicians and dancers were not
proceeding to Arafat that they might be present at the forthcoming
sermon on the mount. Their aim was to collect as much money as they
could wring from the pilgrims, and then be the first to lead the
procession back to Mina. For there, after the Lenten hardships of
the Hájj are ended, several days are spent in holding revels and in
merry-making.
An uninterrupted march of half-an-hour, under a stormy sky, brought us
to where two walls define the boundary of Arafat. There the _moghavem_
halted, and cried out, in a joyful voice, “O blessed pilgrims, here we
are on the exalted soil of Alemeyn! May peace be with Muhammad and with
his family!”
Forthwith there arose on all sides such an outburst of religious
enthusiasm as I had not witnessed even in the Harem of the Ka’bah.
Cries of “Labbaik allahhomá labbaik!” passed from lip to lip. The
torch-bearer fell on his face to the earth, and shed tears of delirious
joy. The dying man on my mule sank to the ground, dragging the corpse
with him, and sang praises to Allah with his last breath. A native
dervish, beside himself with hashshish-bibbing, danced furiously round
and round, beating on his bare breast, and tearing his unkempt locks,
and shrieking excitedly, “Yá-Hú! Hú-yá!” Then, with one accord, we
all prostrated ourselves five times in prayer, rending the air with a
chorus of “Here I am, O Allah, here am I!”
After the excitement had subsided, the _Sahebin-ul-Maiet_, or owners
of the dead, met in conference together, and decided that it would
be best to bury the corpses of their friends before we entered the
encampment on the plain of Arafat. To that end the help of the Bedouin
drivers was solicited. A grave was dug, measuring about ten feet by
twelve, and having a depth of some two-and-a-half feet and into this
the bodies were lowered and placed side by side, some wrapt in their
white _kefans_, and the rest wearing the habits they died in. The pit
was then filled up, and large stones were piled a-top, serving the
double purpose of preventing the corpses from being snatched by beasts
of prey, and of marking the place where they lay buried. This done, an
Indian _mullá_, putting his thumbs behind the lobes of his ears, the
fingers extended, exclaimed with indescribable fervour, “One only is
great--one Allah!” while the pilgrims, taking their stand behind him,
bowed themselves to the ground in prayer.
The funeral rites over, the _mullá_ declared the dead to be “martyrs in
the Faith,” on which the _moghavems_ of our respective caravans, having
made all necessary preparations, ordered us to press forward in the
direction of the city of tents.
I looked round in search of the torch-bearer, but he was nowhere to be
seen, nor could anyone whom I questioned tell me what was become of
him. I never saw him again.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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