With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Religion
With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902
Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Mecca (Saudi Arabia); Pilgrims and pilgrimages
On resuming our journey, the threatening storm-clouds overhead
dissolved in a shower of rain which drenched us to the skin. More
impatient than ever to find Seyyid ’Alí and my Persian friends, I bade
the Malay and Indian wayfarers a hasty farewell, then, urging my mule
into a quick ambling pace, was soon far in advance of their caravan.
The road is very narrow at Alemeyn, but it widens considerably,
as, taking a sudden bend from the east to the north-north-east, it
approaches the central broadway of the encampment. This thoroughfare
was turned into a bustling open-air bazaar. Coffee-booths were erected
at intervals of every twenty or thirty yards, and at these places the
crowd was thickest, and blazing torches impregnated the air with smoke
and the stench of noisome oil. It is customary to keep awake throughout
the hours of this night, praying and reading the Kurán; and maybe the
practice was honoured in the observance by many a pious pilgrim within
the seclusion of his tent; but, in this gadabout centre of uproar and
confusion, the vigil was passed in no such devotional mood. Eating
and drinking took the place of religious exercises. Stories were told
to the bubbling of the water-pipe; love songs were intoned under the
journeying moon; and pilgrims, whose minds were sharpened with long
brooding over metaphysical conundrums, could yet find the keenest zest
in bartering noisily over the purchase of a melon.
It passed through my mind that here, if anywhere, I should be likely
to happen upon Seyyid ’Alí, for his pleasure-loving disposition, as I
shrewdly guessed, would be irresistibly attracted to where it could
be best satisfied and displayed. And in this expectation I gave my
mule in charge of a beggar, and, having ordered a cup of coffee at a
refreshment stall, sat down on a stool to keep watch.
I had not been waiting more than a quarter of an hour when I saw Sheykh
Eissa come riding towards me. The “rose of my heart bloomed,” and I
leaped to my feet with joy, calling him by his name. At last his eyes
met mine, and in another moment he was at my side.
“Sir,” he said, with a deep salaam; “Seyyid ’Alí is looking for you
_dar-beh-dar_--from door to door. He has just gone down the road with
our _moghavem_, and one of our servants, and a Bedouin driver, to see
if he can find you. If you had bought one of my talismans, you would
not have lost yourself in the crowd.”
“My friend,” I replied, “you will remember the story of the Slave in
Sa’adi’s book of the _Rose Garden_. When he was on board ship he cried
night and day from fear of the sea. Then Fate threw him overboard that
he might appreciate the safety of the ship, and be thankful to be
rescued and set on board again. I have learned the same lesson on the
journey from Mina to Arafat. There is no condition in life so miserable
but it may be rendered almost pleasant, in retrospect, by a more
wretched one still.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account