For the rest, among Hindu women the dress consists of three portions
only, never more, though they may be only two. These are a skirt,
a bodice, and a mantle. The skirt is not very different from the
petticoat of Europe in cut, but may either drop simply or be made up in
accordion pleats, something as a kilt is pleated, so cut as to stand
out a considerable way at the ankle. The latter shape, worn mainly by
the women of Márwár, but in painting invariably given to Rádha and the
loves of the god Krishna, is most beautiful with its brush and swing.
The skirt is fastened plainly by a silken cord tied fast at the waist
and is sometimes girdled by a silver belt. The Indian bodice again is
designed in the main to support the breast whose form it defines and
even, by its pattern, accentuates. It may either fit all round the
person, fastening in front by buttons or a ribbon, or be a covering for
the chest only, put on from the front and tied across the open back by
two tapes. But the most distinctive feature of all is certainly the
glorious drapery of the _sari_, which has been translated “mantle”
in default of a better word. The _sari_ is an article of dress as
distinctive as the Spanish mantilla and as difficult to wear with
the right charm and manner. It is an oblong of material, hemmed when
possible at one side with gold embroidery and edged with a sort of
closed fringe. When, as is most common, it is worn with a skirt,
its length is about fifteen feet and its breadth about three. When,
however, as in a contrasting style, it has by its intricacies to take
the place of an absent skirt as well, it measures some twenty-five feet
in length. It is to these mantles that the Indian lady devotes her
deftest thoughts and on them, within the limits conceded by caste and
fashion, that she displays her personal tastes. Their hues and patterns
have an infinite range. Some are in plain natural colours, white or
red or blue--solid, unbroken colour, not least beautiful in the stark
sunlight. Others are delicate cotton prints, flowered and sprigged and
dainty. Sometimes they are printed in a bold decorative pattern, formal
and conventional. Neutral and half tints at times mix in a bewildering
wealth of hue, till the eye is at a loss to know whether the ground
be green or pink or purple. The border may be a plain hem-stitch or a
two-inch broad piece of gold brocade, sumptuously woven in the acanthus
pattern or in the shape of birds and flowers. But in the draping of the
mantle, so simple in cut yet of such infinite variety, consists the
highest art and the true expression of personality. One end is taken
round the waist a couple of times and tucked into the waist-band at
the centre, falling to the feet in formal folds; the other passes over
head and shoulder, with the breadth decorated and displayed across the
upper half of the body. In the management of the upper half lies the
true secret. It must show the full beauty of the cloth, yet by a sort
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