Women's Bathing and Swimming Costume in the United StatesKidwell, Claudia Brush
History
Women's Bathing and Swimming Costume in the United States
Kidwell, Claudia Brush
Bathing suits -- History
Women's magazines in the United States from the third quarter of the
19th century show illustrations of bathing costume, but in many
instances these publications used European fashion plates. _Harper's
Bazar_, (spelled thus until 1929) particularly in its early years, used
fashion plates and pattern supplements from its German predecessor _Der
Bazar_. Thus, in one issue one can find a fashion plate showing the
predominantly bifurcated European bathing suit and, in a column on New
York fashions, a separate description of long-skirted bathing dresses
with trousers. During the same period _Peterson's Magazine_ had
illustrations previously used in the London publication, _Queen's
Magazine_.
American women seem to have accepted the majority of styles shown in
European fashion plates, except for the skirtless bathing suits. The
writer of an 1868 column on New York fashions sought to convince his
readers to try the more daring European style although he grudgingly
admitted that the "Bathing suits made with trousers and blouse waist
without skirt are objected to by many ladies as masculine and
fast...."[36] This style was in fact, very similar to the costume worn
by men when they bathed with the ladies. A year later, the writer of the
same fashion column had given up the campaign to dress all women in the
skirtless suits and admitted that these imports "... are worn by expert
swimmers, who do not wish to be encumbered with bulky clothing."[37]
Such practical bathing dress was thus limited to a very small number of
progressive women.
[36] "New York Fashions," _Harper's Bazar_ (August 8, 1868), vol. 1,
no. 41, p. 643.
[37] Ibid. (July 10, 1869), vol. 2, no. 28, p. 435.
The majority, consisting of those who were strictly bathers, wore the
ankle-length drawers beneath a long dress as described or illustrated in
the majority of sources that originated in the United States. Why was
the European bathing suit not fully adopted by American women?
Differences between the bathing customs of the two continents
undoubtedly encouraged the development of different dress. While men and
women in the United States bathed together freely at the seashore during
the latter half of the 19th century, this practice was not widely
accepted in England until the early 1900s. In the presence of men,
American women probably felt compelled to retain their more concealing
dress and drawers.
In England swimming seems to have been more popular among women than it
was in the United States. While encouraging its readers to swim, during
the late 1860s, _Queen's Magazine_ used forceful language of a kind that
was not found in American publications until the late 19th century. If
swimming was more acceptable as a feminine exercise in England it is
understandable why English women were more receptive to a functional,
skirtless bathing suit--especially since it was worn only in the
presence of other women.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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