Women's Bathing and Swimming Costume in the United StatesKidwell, Claudia Brush
History
Women's Bathing and Swimming Costume in the United States
Kidwell, Claudia Brush
Bathing suits -- History
In 1858, Winslow Homer, who was later to become a well-known American
painter, was welcomed into the society at Newport until it became
apparent that he wanted to sketch the bathers for a weekly newspaper
(see fig. 4). So great were the ensuing objections that he was permitted
to complete his sketches "... provided he depicted the bathers only in
the water and only above the waistline and without divulging the
identity of the bathers."[38]
[38] B. BROOKE, "Bathing-dress with Hat and Gloves," _Hobbies_ (August
1958), vol. 63, p. 90.
As can be seen in figure 4, these sketches serve more as a testament of
Homer's fancy than as an accurate historical statement on style. The two
feminine legs exposed in the water from just below the knee to the toe
and the feminine head coverings appear to be anachronisms. According to
several other illustrations of the period, these women were undoubtedly
wearing long drawers. The young artist at 22, however, has been
described as having an eye for feminine beauty and a sense of fashion.
He seems to have exploited to the full the decorative possibilities of
hoop skirts blown by the breeze or agitated by some pretty accident to
discreetly reveal a trim ankle. A drama of breeze versus long skirt
appears with the small feminine figure in the left background of this
print. The force of the waves and the motion of the frolicking bathers
gave the artist opportunity to show two more pretty accidents. The only
head covering he showed for feminine bathers was a ruffled cap that
framed the face. Other sources show Newport bathers wearing the less
attractive wide-brimmed straw hat (fig. 9). The straw headgear worn over
these caps seems more likely since Newport's fashionable belles would
surely have sacrificed appearances and worn a straw hat to avoid an
unfashionable sunburn and tan.
[Illustration: Figure 9.--BATHING HAT of natural color and purple straw,
c. 1880. (Smithsonian photo P-65409.)]
Nevertheless, Homer's sketch reflects characteristics seen in certain
surviving examples from the 1860s--namely that the top was becoming more
fitted, being attached completely to a belt with the fuller skirt
pleated or gathered to the bottom edge of the belt. In the Design
Laboratory Collection of the Brooklyn Museum there is an 1860 black
poplin specimen that may be a bathing dress. This example is trimmed at
the shoulder seam with epaulets, an example of the extent to which
fashion was finally playing a part in bathing costume.[39]
[39] Photograph and pattern appears in Blanch Payne, _History of
Costume_ (New York: Harper & Row, 1965), pp. 518, 583-584.
The dresses described above appear peculiar not only to 20th century
eyes, but they also seem to have amused mid-19th century correspondents.
One writer in 1857 declared that,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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