Women's Bathing and Swimming Costume in the United StatesKidwell, Claudia Brush
History
Women's Bathing and Swimming Costume in the United States
Kidwell, Claudia Brush
Bathing suits -- History
In the 1870s the rare descriptions of this more functional
garment--called "swimming suit" even at this early date--were limited to
a sentence or two buried within long columns of fine print describing
popular bathing apparel. One mentions a "... single knitted worsted
garment, fitting the figure, with waist and trousers in one."[49]
Another was made without sleeves as "one garment, the blouse and
trousers being cut all in one, like the sleeping garments worn by small
children."[50] These more practical bifurcated garments probably derived
from the European suit of the 1860s that had been rejected by the
majority of American women. For example, an English source reported that
in 1866 the following garment was worn: "... Swimming Costume, a body
and trousers cut in one, secures perfect liberty of action and does not
expose the figure."[51]
[49] Ibid. (July 13, 1872), vol. 5, no. 28, p. 459.
[50] Ibid. (July 25, 1874), vol. 7, no. 30, p. 475.
[51] As quoted in C. WILLETT CUNNINGTON, _English Women's Clothing in
the 19th Century_ (New York: Thomas Yoseloff, 1958), p. 225.
The descriptions of American swimming suits, however brief, offered
evidence that the pastime was growing in popularity with women.
Generally speaking, 19th century women's magazines were mere
disseminators of fine and decorous ideas and practices for well-mannered
ladies; their editors were not innovators. With such an editorial policy
it is understandable that these magazines would not, as a rule,
publicize trends of popular origin until they were fairly well
established. The skirtless swimming suit of the 1870s was no doubt more
common in the United States than its meager description in _Harper's
Bazar_ would seem to indicate.
As long as feminine swimming was not generally accepted, however,
efforts to develop practical swimming suits remained isolated owing to
the lack of communication between manufacturer and consumer and to
traditional attitudes. Feminine interest in swimming and physical
activities threatened belief in the "weaker-sex" that contributed to
maintaining the traditional masculine and feminine roles; efforts to
develop functional swimming dress also attacked established standards of
feminine modesty. These challenges to the status quo were met with the
weapon of the complacent majority--silence. Consequently, from the third
quarter of the 19th century, when we find the first reference to a
specialized garment for swimming in the United States, writings on
swimming costume appeared infrequently until the 1920s.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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