In 1886 two "ladies' bathing jerseys" and two bathing suits of the traditional type appeared in the _First Illustrated Catalogue of Knitted Bathing Suits_ of J. J. Pfister Company in San Francisco. The captions over the illustrations leave no question that the briefer bathing jerseys were intended for swimming while the others were for bathing. These jerseys--form-fitting tunics that were mid-thigh in length--were made with high necks and cap sleeves. Underneath this garment women wore trunks that extended to the knee and stockings; there was also the alternate choice of tights, a combination of trunks and stockings. To complete the outfit the feminine reader was encouraged to buy a knitted skull cap. Apparently these bathing jerseys were successful; three, instead of two, jerseys appeared in the same catalog in 1890. It is obvious from this later catalog, however, that there was a greater demand for bathing dresses since twelve designs of the skirted costume were featured as opposed to the two dresses in the first issue. [Illustration: Figure 14.--THE RECOMMENDED COSTUME FOR SWIMMING from J. Parmly Paret, _The Woman's Book of Sports_, 1901. (Smithsonian photo 58436.)] Even by the early 20th century it is difficult to find specific references to a swimming suit in women's magazines; only occasionally does a concern with swimming obtrude into the traditional descriptions of bathing dress. In _The Woman's Book of Sports_, however, J. Parmly Paret was specific about the requirements for a suitable swimming costume in 1901. It is particularly important that nothing tight should be worn while swimming, no matter how fashionable a dress may be for bathing. The exercise requires the greatest freedom, and a swimming costume should never include corsets, tight sleeves, or a skirt below the knees. The freedom of the shoulders is the most important of all, but anything tight around the body interferes with the breathing and the muscles of the back, while a long skirt--even one a few inches below the knees--binds the legs constantly in making their strokes.[52] [52] J. PARMLY PARET, _The Woman's Book of Sports_ (New York: D. Appleton & Co., 1901), p. 74. Although this costume (fig. 14) more closely resembles the traditional bathing dress than the jersey described previously, this discussion illustrates the growing dichotomy between bathing dress and swimming dress and between fashionable styles and functional styles.