Women's Bathing and Swimming Costume in the United StatesKidwell, Claudia Brush
History
Women's Bathing and Swimming Costume in the United States
Kidwell, Claudia Brush
Bathing suits -- History
Photographs of East coast beach scenes in 1903 show a few women wearing
costumes different from the black or navy blue bathing dress worn by the
majority. These independent spirits seem to be wearing close-fitting
knitted trunks that cover the knees or, when with stockings, come within
an inch or two above the knee. Above these trunks they appear to be
wearing knitted one-piece tunics or belted blouses that cover the hips.
This costume, sleeveless or short-sleeved, and with a simplified
neckline, must have been the functional suit of its day.
An important impetus was given to the development of the swimming suit
with the entrance of women into swimming as a competitive sport. On
September 5, 1909, Adeline Trapp wore a one-piece knitted swimming suit
when she became the first woman to swim across the East River in New
York, through the treacherous waters of Hell Gate. Both the swimming
suit and the swim were part of a campaign devised by Wilbert
Longfellow--of the U.S. Volunteer Life Saving Corps--to encourage women
to learn to swim.
Adeline Trapp was a summer employee of the Life Saving Corps in 1909.
Mr. Longfellow saw in the 20-year-old Brooklyn school teacher a
respectable young woman who could be a source of publicity. He ordered
her to get a one-piece swimming suit for the swim. As early as 1899 in
England, a woman participating in competitions organized by the Amateur
Swimming Association could have worn a one-piece, skirtless, knitted
costume with a shaped sleeve at least three inches long, a slightly
scooped neck, and legs that extended to within three inches of the knee.
Mr. Longfellow may have had this English suit in mind. He might have
known of similar suits in the United States or he might have simply
wanted to free Adeline of yards of fabric to make her more competitive
with male swimmers. Nevertheless, Adeline Trapp did not know that the
English suits existed, nor did she know where she could find one. She
spent many hours going from one American manufacturer to another trying
on men's knitted suits. She found that they were all cut too low at the
neck and armholes and did not cover enough of the legs to preclude
criticism. At this point a friend who worked for a stocking manufacturer
offered to get her a suitable costume from England. This costume, a
knitted, gray cotton suit--whether originally for a man or woman in
England is not known--was the one Adeline wore when she swam Hell Gate.
Although more than thirty men attempted the swim, the fact that a woman
accomplished the feat made newspaper headlines. Following this event,
Miss Trapp received a terse letter from the Brooklyn School Board
stating that they thought it improper for an educator of Brooklyn
children to appear in public so scantily dressed in a one-piece swimming
costume. For her future swims Adeline Trapp was careful to have someone
carry a blanket to throw over her as she emerged from the water.[53]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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