“_Ou allez vous, Monsieur?_” the sentry at the bridge of Epernay challenges our chauffeur. And the French captain himself leans from the window to answer, “_À Rheims. Une mission de la gouvernement._” So we pass sentry after sentry. It is 15 miles to Rheims. This is the Department of the Marne, with the vineyards that have produced the most famous wines of the world. The “smiling countryside of France,” the poets have termed it. In September, 1914, history changed it to the grim field of carnage running red with the blood of civilisation that here made its stand against the onrushing Huns. Right across that valley see the battlefield of the Marne. Along this road the German army passed. From this little village that we are entering, all the inhabitants fled before their approach. The enemy now is not far away. Over there, just against that horizon, lie the trenches they now occupy. See this roadside along which we are driving, how it is curiously hung with linen curtains? They are strung on wires fifteen feet high. For miles we ride behind them. It is the camouflage, the French captain says, that hides us from German view. We have just emerged from the forest at the edge of the Mountain of Rheims when, hark! Hear it—the sharp, distinct sound of an explosion! What is it? Where is it? The captain lays his hand reassuringly on my arm: “It is, I think, a tire that has burst on the rear car.” “Captain,” I say, “no automobile tire I ever heard sounded exactly like that.” “You are not nervous?” he asks. I shake my head. “Well,” he admits, “it is sometimes that the Germans do take a chance shot at this road.”